I have a few questions. I have studied the brake system and bought a new master cylinder, front hoses and rear hose. These are my questions, if you dont mind helping me. 1) From the master cylinder there are two curly lines that go to a part mounted 6 or 8 inches away attached to the compartment wall. Looks like there is a electronic sensor going to this part. What is that part called? Easy to get? Should it get replaced? Where do you get those 2 curly lines? What are they called? Do the curly lines need to get replaced? Can I just fab these curly lines from brake line? Can the fab be a straight shot or should it be curled? 2) With my master cyclinder came a shaft and some hardware. I assume this stuff mounts to the rear of the master cylinder. Where does it go to and is it easy to connect? When I remove the old one I imagine I can study it to see how it all connects. Any tips? 3) The master cylinder has a warning "must be bench bled" I understand how to bleed from working on motorcyles. How is bench bleeding different from bleeding once the master cylinder is installed and you are putting all new fluid through the new lines and hoses? 4) Is the brake line consistent throught the whole system? What diameter brake line does it use? How many pieces should I get and how long? Is it easy to bend? The auto store has pre fabbed pieces with fittings, but one size doesn't fit all, so do you bend and cut the line where needed and flare the fitting on? Sorry if I rambled. Soon to have a sweet Mav. Greg
#1.Leave the curly lines alone unless they are rotten.That thing with the electric thing is the brake proportioning valve(dont remove it or mess with it)The electric thing is the brake pressure switch.It turns on the brake warning light on the dash if you lose pressure(leak)Yes you can just fab new curly lines(dont omit the curl)Its there for a reason(brake pressure surge)#2.Yes look carefully when you disassemble it.The shaft goes from the pedal to the master cyl.(its what makes the brakes work when you step on the pedal)If you do use it(not necessary)unless the original is missing/bent/rotten.Make sure it is the same length as the original,if not DONT use it.#3.You bleed it on the bench(put it in a vise)to hold it.Dont cranck it down(the vise) just enough to hold the master cyl steady.Its easier out of the car to do as well as the stroke is shorter with a screw driver or extension to pump the piston.You dont want to push a dry piston the full stroke,you can damage it,so dont bottom out the piston when you pump it.#4.The line is 3/16ths of an inch.(Dont go bigger!)Best way is to buy a coil(roll) of 3/16" brake line and bend em up your self.Get a DOUBLE flareing tool.Single flares are unsafe (prone to splitting).Regular steel line is easey to bend/cut/flare.Stainless is harder and requires a top notch flareing tool to get good flares.Good luck,Hope I gave you the answers you need.
NOTE...use a good brand...line wrench...when taking the lines loose. i spray all the fittings with...PB BLASTER...first. i think they sell...prebent brake line kits ...for our cars... do they need replacing? pay close att. when you disconnect the ...master cyl. rod...from the pedal shaft. it will go on 2 ways and only work the correct way. ...
Thanks So Far, Another Question I think I got it. Question the rod going into the master cylinder has a clip. I got to believe the clip comes off and is discarded. There is no place for the clip in the piston. Am I right?
