any one running the 6208 hooker on a 302 without spacers???? these are the 1 3/4 headers for the maverick with a engine swap 351 w
they won't work on a 302 in a maverick without the spacers due to bellhousing clearance and block clearance issues. This is due to the reduced deck height of the 302 when compared to the 351W, which is as you stated, what these headers are designed for. I suggest an alternative solution that will probably work and the end result would probably be much better in a race motor. Check this link out, I think these headers from Tubular Automotive just might be the ticket!!!!! Read the whole thread... Tubular Automotive headers for early mustangs w/ 351W swap
Beautiful car, N2. Having installed the 6208's on mine, I can back-up what Steve said. Even with the spacers, I (we) still had to grind away some of the motor mount. Also, the ps header hits the starter housing on a small C4. I looked into getting the ones Steve told you about, but at the time, no one had tried them yet. I didn't want to be the guinea pig. Good luck and welcome to the board. Please tell us more about your car. -Rick
My Maverick Since I was asked I will use this opportunity to tell all of you (boastfully) about my maverick. It is a 1972 I am the second owner and I acquired it in march of this year as a 1/8 mile drag car with full electronics (dual line locks hooked up to a delay box and a 3 step) He was the original owner (actually his mother) and the car had made it through both of his parents and took both of his boys to college as a 6 cyl. Once they graduated he picked up his new hobbie and started racing this car. He was very successfull as this car was very consistant running high 7's at 85 mph, I loved the car but was unimpressed with the performance considering it weighed in at 2585 with me in the car, and ran a 4.86 gear and a 10" converter. I pulled the motor down and found a 040 over 302 with a comp cams 280 H (can you say pu$$Y cam) So I ordered a solid crower cam and bolted on a set of windsor sr heads I had in my basement. I also took 1.00 points of gear out of it with a 3.89 gear, because now the car had no electronics and was tagged registered and insured and runs 2.5" flowmaster exhaust that dumps out infront ofthe rear tires with 3.5" stainless slanted tips 2.5 feet long. exhaust looks awesome and sounds "violent". I ran the car and once again found my self un impressed with a 13.20 @ 107 so on went a new set of Pro Topline aluminum heads and a 175 shot of NOs, along with twin fuel systems feeding from the same tanks One from the original sender that feeds the Nos 3/8 and one that comes out of the bottom of the tank with a cell fiting and runs 1/2 inch stainless all the way up to the mallory regulator, both sides are regulated and run holley blue pumps, I think that I took too much gear out of the car so I put in a set of 4.30s since I was now running 28x12.5 mt et streets, now the car ran 11.21 @ a whopping 128mph with a 1.96 60 foot (this was on 11-22-03 at Cecil county drag way in Maryland. The unfortunate part about this is that without the nos the car was pulling a 1.88 60 ft so I was able to narrow it down to the fact that the converter was Ballooning with the Nos and this past weekend I installed a custom built ATI converter with a 4200 stall anti balooning plates and built with a sprag for steet use Its a 8" converter and shouldput my 60' fts in the 1.50 range and put me way into the 10's I also at this time had a new holley hp 750 built and upped the Nos to 225 hp, and put in a custom ground solid flat tappet cam from comp cams that is a Nitrous grind new cam sports these specs. 600 - 608 lift with 1.6 rockers 254--260 duration at .050 and a 112 lc this should make all the difference in the world since the heads flow the best #s at 600 and my old Crower cam was only .499 lift on a 110 lc. Seriously If the car hooks it should go 10 teens especially since with the new heads the car weighs in at a Meek 2485 with me in it. I hope I have told you guys all you need to know, Oh yeah the interior is all stock and full and has pinto high back buckets in it and get this NO NO NO ROLLBAR at all only subframeconnectors. My kids love the car and a bar is just a hinderance.
No Bar? Indeed a very nice ride. My track would let you run 11's ONCE without a bar! Then you are banned from the track till up to spechs! Have a bar in your future? Scotty
You really should put some sort of cage in that thing if you're planning on going that fast. The bar may be a hinderence to your kids now, but it will be more than a hinderence to have you gone. Sorry for the downer, just my opinion.
Thanks for the info. Sounds like it'll easily do 10's now. Although I would look into stepping up to a 29" tire with that gear. Just IMO. Also, I have to agree with Ray - do your family a favor and get a roll bar. That's even taking out the fact that the track should let you run ONCE without it - if the owner/operator has any regard for you. Again, very nice ride. Keep us posted on the NEW best times you're gonna be getting. -Rick
just to let you know i just installed a six point rollbar in my mav and am still able to put all the interior pieces and the back seat in the car.... i used the seat saver bars in the back of the car and it wont be a hassle getting in the backseat...(i Didnt Put in the crossbar behind the seat but can always install it later if i want) plus am still able to use the factory buckets in the car minus the seatbelt holder(hits the main bar) but thats all i had to sacrifice jegs still makes the rollbar for the maverick
hmm... Hey grabber. Do you mean it was pre fabbed specifically for mavericks from Jegs? How was the fit? did you have to do any extra bending or much trimming? I'm assuming the seat saver bar is a removeable crossbrace? Also how much? Thanks,
Yes this car is on the usbody source maverick section because this is their hood, The previous owner sent them the pic when he installed the hood and they put it on their sight. I do have plans for something roll bar related, ITs just a matter of finding the right fabricator, It will be a 5 point with a single swing out bar on my side and nothing on the passenger side, I do not want to run a cross bar but I know that this is a must to pass tech. My cross bar will be as high as possible and will also be quick release, THe kickers in to the trunk dont bother me as long as they go through the deck and no the seat. and personally a car that runs mid to high 11's without the poweradder isnt that fast. Its the Nos that really makes it too fast to not have a rollbar. and really how much time do you really spend "squeezing" Dave
I wonder how your car can be so light with full interior. Other than the hood, is it all metal exterior? This is like 600 lbs lighter than mine & I'm running a manual.
Thought so. That is very light. Does it have their fenders and doors too? Welcome to the board by the way.
hey courier, I got my 8 point from JEGS as well, the guy that put it in for me said he had "no problems" with it.
the only bend i put in the bars was right where the bar welds into the mainbar i tweeked a little bit to clear the seats better.. and the seatsaver bars are sold seperatly to eliminate the straight bars the go in the trunk from the main loop they actually travel just above and alond the side windows thry the panel above the package tray and then bend down to the frame......i will post the pics for you when i get em
