I want to shave off the door handles, door locks, and trunk lock on the Comet GT. Anybody ever use this system or have any experience with something else. I want a remote system. http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=POP-R4SOL
Looks like the items you are looking at will work just fine for what you want to do. I have used these type of items in the past. Wonder why they dont include the relays?? Installing stuff like this is really all about how you install it. You might want to keep the item numbers handy as this type of stuff goes south quick. Should be an easy install without the use of resisiters or any type of diodes in my thinking. Been about 7 years since I have done any of that type of work, but it is apparent that not much new techology has come about, especially with a straight forward install like yours. The real thing that is holding back on mega installs like this is the fact the industry is balking on building cars with 18 or 24 volt systems, which will force some real new technology on all of us. Is the item that is called a door thruster popper simply an actuater?? What a weird way to describe it. If you have a local reputable car stereo shop, you might see what they have available. Most of this stuff out of the box is jap crap and lends itself to being bad out of the box. Kind of makes it easier if you can take stuff back to a local business. Dang, I thought I was gonna be the first to do this one. But I was gonna wait till I eventually redo my car, which is probably not gonna happen in the next 5 years Dan
I relooked ( is that a word?) at the price of the door thruster popper, it cant be an actuater, too cheap, must be some switched type device that pops open. Dan
There is a company called autoloc, and they have absolutely everything you need to complete this task. It is not all that hard. I have been in car audio and electronics for 15 years and I have installed systems that were made of trunk pop solenoids and alarm systems. The new kits have everything including door poppers which are springs that mount in the jambs to "push" the door ajar while the solenoid "pops" the latch. They even come with a remote transmitter system if you do not plan on using an alarm as your transmitter/receiver setup. If you need these parts you can PM me and I can sell them to you if you can't find them locally. I manage a car audio store in Nebraska and I just installed this system on a 1967 fiat 1100R station wagon we made into a sound pressure showcar. Oh yah, I did this to my 72 grabber in 1988. It is very cool and makes the car look slick. Todays components make it even easier with 35lb pull solenoids which will pull just about any latch open, and popper springs. I suggest using the best quality wiring and connectors with adequate fusing and wire gauge. As with anything electrical make sure you have a back-up entry plan. I ran a thin cable with a t-handle through the door jamb and into the fenderwell. This allowed me to pull the plastic back and unlatch the door (at least on one side) without electric power. Just in case the battery is dead for some reason. I had my battery in the trunk so I felt this was necessary. Let me know if I can help in any way.
cant tell you about that particular kit, I used Uncle Al's solenoids, rated at 80# pull, I also bought the door poppers but after installing the solenoids I found they wernt needed(still have them if you want them cheap) there are several companies that have the remotes if you decide to go that route. if you dont want use solenoids? the screw motor actuators work very well.spend the bulk of your money on the main point of the system(i.e. solenoids) if they dont work, plan on another way to enter your car, back up systems, and such. there are various ways to execute these. all depends on how you want things to work. oh, and the door poppers are nothing more than a spring encased in a tube
I have used Autoloc for my power windows in my Maverick and power locks in my 70 f-100. It is pretty good stuff. My local hot rod shop selld it directly and haven't had any complaints with their stuff.
Thanks guys. Another question. Is the solenoid energized as long as the button is pushed or is it just a momentary type release? If it stays energized, then the poppers would not be needed. He Chris, do you have a link for Uncle Al ?
Mavaholic, most remote transmitter/receivers are set up to do a pulsed (-) output of about .3-.5 seconds, long enough to pop a door open, There is also a mode on some auxilary outputs that is called "valididity". This is when the output is "on" as long as the button is held down which may help on some stubborn doors. These solenoids draw some serious current so use that mode only in extreme cases. I've been using these systems a long time and as long as everything is geometrically solid you won't have any problem. I never have had to replace any parts in my system and only one solenoid in a customers car over many years. Thats my experience though. Make sure everything in the latch assembly is well lubed, graphite actually works great and your door alignment and hinges are good. Good luck! Blown76Mav - nice hidden door latches I like those too. Nice work! very clever.
I'll look up their contact info when i get home for ya dennis. I made rods to use in mine versus cable, no bind and no cable stretch or ends coming loose.
i shaved the handles on my last car 85 mustang gt the remote locks worked great in the warm weather but good luck to you if you live in a cold climate oh and dont keep remote in youre pocket cant tell ya how many times i went to the car only to find that the door had unlocked because i had the remote in my pocket and coins or keys would hit the button lol
I half installed the autolock 35 lb system this past summer. I did the passenger door, electrical setup, and rivited some temporary sheet metal from the inside to cover the holes. The solnoids have alot of power. They are alot louder than I expected but I dont regret it yet. I bought the autolock spings to get the door past the latch but they are not installed yet. After trimming and drilling new holes in the mounting bracket, installation was pretty strait foward. As soon as i go on break from school (12/22), I'll finnish the installation (and do a ton of other things on the mav- I'll have 2 weeks to work on her-HEAVEN!). As soon as I'm home, I can post some pics if that would be helpful. Dan
