What is the better , cheaper way to go ? The car has 33 spline strange spool and axles . 347 with Victor jr heads and C-4 4200 stahl TCI nitrous converter .
I have ladder bar coilover under mine but canot tell you how it works yet.........one of these days I hope to get it finished but I did'nt think it was to awful hard to install........by the way my car is not back halfed..........but mine has Moser stuff
Oh how I wish I had a Mustang 2 front end..... maybe in the future , lets get the back end done first.... these uni traction bars are driving me nuts!
I copied this from Chris Alston's Chassisworks website: LADDER BARS vs 4-LINK A 4-link is like anything else that’s infinitely adjustable: If you’re not going to spend the time it takes to get it adjusted correctly, you’re better off with a part that doesn’t adjust. If you want to buy something that’s inexpensive; that doesn’t take a lot of real care and extra energy to install; and that basically works right out of the box, then ladder bars are for you. If you want your car to go as fast as possible, and you’re willing to invest whatever energy it takes, choose a 4-link. Neither type of suspension is perfectly suited to all-around highway operation. To be 100-percent streetable, a rear suspension must allow the rearend to “roll” independent of the body. This movement is necessary to smoothly transverse potholes, speed bumps, curbs and other irregularities in the road. Chassisworks now offers ladder bars and 4-links with large, urethane-bushed rod ends which greatly increase the amount of rearend roll available — a real plus for Pro Street applications. Additionally, these urethane bushings will absorb some of the road vibrations. The importance of rearend roll is greatly diminished on smooth surfaces, of course. Typically, a 4-link allows the rearend to roll a few degrees more than ladder bars. Our new Pro Street 4-link offers an unprecedented amount of suspension travel and, consequently, an incredibly smooth ride. Incidentally, this is the first race-type 4-link ever designed specifically for high-powered street cars and trucks. Beware of old-style “4-bar” designs. These are borrowed from the street-rod industry, and will not hold up to high horsepower. One more thing: All of your chassis and suspension components should be purchased from a single source. If you buy a Chassisworks 4-link or ladder bars and another company’s subframe, you’re compromising whatever science was designed into each system — assuming you can even get the parts to fit! Frame design has a tremendous amount to do with the bracket design. That being said, I am doing a 4-link. Ladders are more violent, but easier to set up (also easier to screw up when putting the rear frame together.) A ladder bar car has very little tuning in the rear end where a 4-link car has many different combinations. If you plan on buiding a lot of power (over 600 HP) I would go with the 4-link. The maverick's shorter wheelbase tends to lift the front end, even with leaf springs, and it can get out of hand quickly. A 4-link will allow you to place instant center to where this won't be such a problem, or you can move the bars around and make it really loft the front end. Either one costs about the same. Good luck!
Hey mavman, don't the 4-link take up more space under the car? Which means more fabricating and what-not to install them. Just curious.
What size tire do you want to run? I using a 29x12.5x15 M/T with ladder bars from BEARS PERFORMANCE in Canada. S-2150-S "Bear's" adjustable ladder bars with shock mount brackets; Also still using leaf springs, and got rid of the back seat. Did the mini tube with a full cage and mustang II front end Have not run car yet, but friend of mine had same set up on his Pinto and he was running very low 8s in the 1/4 with a 460. If you go to web sit go to PRICES they carry everything you need, With your USD to the Canadian $ you guys have it good. will try to send pics one day Here is the web site http://www.bearsperformanceinc.com/main.html
It's usually the other way around. Most ladder bars are either 31" or 33" long, where most 4-links are only 23" long, give or take. The 4-link takes up less space, but both require a lot of fabrication, etc. It all depends on what you're going to do with it, and how large of a tire you'd like to use. I'm using a 32x14-15 Goodyear (right now....will go to a Hoosier later on) on 15x12 wheels. Also, with the way that the mav is set up, the 33" ladder bars would put the crossmember real close to where the driver's seat is, if not under it. With the 4-link, it's just behind the rear door jamb and gives quite a bit more room. I haven't seen a ladder bar maverick, so I can't compare it as far as room goes. I have seen a Monza with ladders, and yes the crossmember was directly under the driver's seat, give or take. With a shorter driver it wouldn't be that bad, but I'm 6'4" and the more room there is, the better. Either way, the back seat has to go and will be replaced with aluminum or steel sheet metal.
Nope, not back-halved. mavaman is right about the length of the ladder bar causing alot of problems under the car. But, I would really like to see some pictures of Jim L. (purple70) he has coil-over and ladders and I think he still has his back seat?????
My car has retained the back seat,Jim's(purple 70) still has his back seat.......and so does Fred H's car as well.........my rear floor pans are only altered where the sub frame conectors go thru. purple 70's setup is really ingenious........but he will have to tell ya himself
my set up is a little bit different, we cut down a set of ladder bars to i think around 24" or so,, but we used the factory leaf spring holes on the front we beafed it up alot, but yes i still have the back seat, but im only running 28x10's on the back, i dont think i could fit much more under it but i dunno,, now granit the tires are Goodyear and the different makes has different side widths so who knows lol,,,,, i'll get some pics prolly this weekend im kinda busy the next couple of days,,,
IMO, if you're trying to retain the back seat, you're building a "street" car. They have a totally different purpose than a true drag car, for which a 4-link and ladder bar suspension is truly designed. If you're gonna go the street/strip route, I'd mini-tub it, and build a triagulated 4-link and use coil-overs. That wouldnt' be too hard, just build 3 crossmembers, 1 for the upper, 1 for the lower control arms, then the rear one for the coil overs. That'd be about the best setup for the street, plus you could get about a 11.5" tire under there. Again, that's my opinion, FWIW.
True it all depends on what you want.........for me it's a fast car......but I want to be able to cruise around with my wife and kids as well.........what it all boils down to is do what YOU want to do.........if I listened to what the masses said my car would have had a small block..........but I like to be different.........but thats just me..........but I would still say that the ladder bar set is easier to set up then the 4 link..........it all depends on the amount of fab work you feel comfortable with...........just my opinion...........for what it's worth.
