Auminum Radiator Installed

ive always wondered myself if in fact, the aluminum radiator would be worth the effort....

 

could you tell us ..how you did the mounting brackets and about the piece on top?

... ...

 

Yeah, how did you do yours? That was the most difficult part of my installation...

 

The mounting brackets were made from some old aluminum shelves that were cut to fit. The bottom one had a "U" shape to it and the radiator fit right in it, and we mounted it to the car using the factory bolts and holes in the radiator support. The top mount was also a shelf that we cut the lip on the front down to fit onto the lip on top of the radiator. This was attached using a couple of self-tapping screws. I can post some more pictures tomorrow if it will help anybody.

71gold, it previously had the stock V8 radiator in it.

What kind of hose is that, scooper, and do you have a part number for it?

 

Also, are any of you guys running an overflow tank? mine seems to lose some antifreeze when it gets warm and I sould like to put one in, but I do not know where to mount it or where to get one.

-Ford Guy

 

If you get that 19X22 installed correctly, you won't need an overflow hose and container...

It will run so cool...you will need a thermostatic switch to keep your fan OFF until it heats up to 195-200 otherwise it will keep itself too cool.

I am running a 165* high flo thermostat with a switch that turns the fan on at 195 and turns off at 170 (or somewhere around there) and I never get above 200*. and seldom TOO 200*...

 

thats scary ...i run those temps with my stock radiator ...with A/C.
i wanted to hear...can't get above 170.
...had to install a 180 t-stat to get it up to operating temp.
or...like my neighbore...he told me today he went to town and back and forgot to turn his fan on. (347 stroker).
that's what i want to hear if i cut up my car to put in a "big aluminum" radiator.

... ...

 

I do have an adjustable thermostatic switch installed, nad it is set for 180 degrees which is where the thermostat opens. What kind of radiator cap are you using? I currently have a 16lb one on mine.

 

The tranny cooler is fine where it is , and is still a considerable upgrade from the factory arrangement. It would be cooler if it were in front of the radiator, but you are still miles ahead. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Only time i got mine hot was with the fan disconnected, and let it sit in 90 degree heat idling for about 20 minutes. It got to 200, but immediately dropped back to 180-ish when I started driving...within a hundred yards or so.

 

A few years ago when I installed my first 351w into a mav- we had some difficulty keeping it cool. That was also a high comp. motor- switched to a Griffin aluminum rad, highflow pump, etc. Temps came way down.

Hard to be objective about the difference though, if I'm being honest... because there may have been a blockage in the stock rad. at that point.

The blown, 427 stroker I'm putting into the grabber now will end up getting a big aluminum rad, twin fans and fabricated aluminum shrouding to funnel air. I also am a fan of running "40 below" coolant additive.

I want no puking of any kind when idling in traffic. lol

just my

good luck!

 

What kind of hose is that, scooper? Do you know how much they cost or where you can get them?

-Thanks

 

right here bro:

http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...iator+hose&N=700+115+400304&Ntk=KeywordSearch

 

Thanks, Mad Max.
Here are some more pictures of the radiator mounts we fabricated.

 

I got mine for under $40 on ebay. same item, same name, half the price...

That bottom is exactly how I mounted mine, the top on mine is bent (poorly, I don't have the correct tools to do a clean and straight bend, someday, I will make another one) and has metal spacers welded to it that fit firmly in the top groove of the radiator. when screwed down to the radiator mount, it actually spring-loads onto the top of the radiator pushing it down with a firm, but not too firm, pressure into the bottom mount, and the spacers keep it from moving forward/backward and side/side.

Entire radiator can be removed with only 2 screws being popped out, and radiator lifted up out of the cradle...