if you have some car ramps, drive the feller up on them. Then lock, chock and block...then go to the rear and push down on the car making it bounce....then you will know.
It will prob still squat a bit. Try the ramps and bounce on it like mentioned. It'll give you a good idea if they'll rub or not
How long are the bars? Do they contact the spring right on the front spring eye? And also how much gap do you have between the bar and the spring? My Comet has trac bars and they hit the spring right on the eye and are set about 1/4 inch away from the spring.I can really feel the car rise when i nail it. Derek.
no.. they dont go all the way to the forward bolt. the gap is not adjustable. so i am assuming my traction bars are more for looks then
Not really a problem,i understand not having a big cash flow coming in also thats why i cut and welded to make them work.Mine are kind ugly modified cheapie bars that came off a pick up truck.I'll post some pics tomorrow but i modified mine to work and they work very well.I will get into the details of what i did when the pics are up,it's alot easyier to see what i am talking about with pics. Derek.
When I used traction bars (slapper bars), there were two critical things. I always lengthened them so the rubber bumper was centered on the spring eye and that there was zero gap between the two. I also prefered the bars that had the lower spring plate built into the bar. Just some things to think about...I was able to take a 3800 lb Cyclone Spoiler into the low 12's using this setup. Of course I had slicks and a big block too.
i just realized on my car.. i am missing one of the rubber bumpers on the drivers side slapper bar anyone know where to get replacements?