lowering a 74

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Blown74, Mar 25, 2007.

  1. courier11sec

    courier11sec Member

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    That looks pretty nice! How thick were the spacers you used to fit the wheels?
     
  2. Blown74

    Blown74 Member

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    74 302 blown- 68 Shelby Gt 500- 69 Cougar XR7 428 ram air
    Done !!

    1 coil off the frt, 1" blocks in the rear...and we media blasted and repainted the rear, springs and wire brushed the rusty looking tank and got that painted as well. Frt done Monday evening and the rear yesterday afternoon/evening. Looks great !! Thanks for all the help!
     
  3. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    Pics??!! :huh:
     
  4. saltracer

    saltracer Member

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    The front set up is from vintagevenom.com
    and the rear is from Mustangsteve.com

    This uses 13" rotors on the front and 11.625" on the rear
     
  5. drag72mav

    drag72mav Member

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    Do you have different size tires on the rear? They look bigger on the rear or does it appear that way after you cut the springs, the only place I could find lowering kits was on the AutoZone.com website, they didn't have a specific suspension lowering kit for the maverick, however I'm assuming the universal 1" blocks will work just as fine? Also I have traction bars on my 72, want to switch them over to the 76, can I just unbolt the screws and take them off or do I have support anything in the process.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2007
  6. saltracer

    saltracer Member

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    Same 245 45R/17 all the way around.
     
  7. drag72mav

    drag72mav Member

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    Sweet (y) One of the other guys at the shop said he's done more than a couple of lowerins, he'll help w gettin the right parts :dance: once ready for it, guess there's also another way to drop the front end by using an drop coil? think that's what he said but anyway wouldn't have to cut the coils, makes a better ride for the bumps lol, will post pics and the parts for em when get the money to do it
     
  8. draggon13

    draggon13 Member

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    As for lowering blocks we have had the best performance from the steel ones, yes, I know they are heavier, but the cast aluminum ones crack rather easily. There are some billet aluminum ones out there, but they are far more expensive than the steel ones we have bought from Advance Auto in the past. Just my :2cents: worth. So if you are going to :drive: HARD, and it sounds like it will be with that setup, AVOID the cast aluminum blocks. We, make that my son broke several under his 84 S10 Blazer with his 305/700R4 with 3.42 gears, yes that is a weak motor, but it was enough to crack'em up.

    rk
     

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