Looking for oilpan that fits with Main girdle

Searched here and didn't find an answer. Looking for an extra capacity pan that will clear a main girdle on a 331 stroker. I tried a factory 7 qt pickup truck pan ( from a 68 pickup) and it was contacting the two main stud nuts on the rear main. Tried the BFH method to clearance it, but ended up screwing up the radius on the seal portion. Most extra capacity front sump pans are stock depth in the rear, so they don't fit either. Removing the girdle isn't an option.

 

Use a sandbag and a ball pein hammer to stretch the metal out where it interferes. Work slowly and do a lot of triel fitting. It takes a little talent and a lot of patient work to form metal to your need. No heat so you don't warp the gasket mating surface.
Paul

 

That's not an option. The main stud nuts are 3-1/4" above the block mating surface, the stock car pans are only 3" deep where the studs are. The Pickup pan is deeper here, but still not possible to clearance it either and it's got more room there than the car pan. Somebody's bound to make a pan that fits without the mods.

 

Gotta watch out.
You might have to raise the engine.
The rear part of the stock pan sits very close to the belly bar and steering components back there.
I think you are right about the aftermarket pans. My Moroso 10" sump was still stock in the rear part.
Is there any way to trim the girdle studs a little shorter?
I use the 1 pc rubber pan gasket, and I think it is a slight bit thicker than stock, but won't gain you 1/4".
Just brainstorming here...
Dave

 

I can do something about steering /suspension clearance. Already tried the pickup pan with the 1 pc gasket. No go. can't make the studs any shorter, with the washers and nuts on them, there's no stud left above the nuts. The contact point is the radius where the rear wall curves to the floor. Canton makes an aluminum pan that will definately clear, but I ain't gonna spend $700 for one. Even a $200 pan makes me balk.

 

hey bad i have a 347 stroker with a girdle and i have not yet installed a pan but I believe i will have the same problem any advice willbe helpful

 

I used a Milodon pan, I can get the #, it cleared my main girdle but needed a few taps with a hammer for extra clearance.

 

I've built many 302's with main girdles and stock pans...even a few 351's....and only had to do minor pan dinging with a ball peen. Do you have any pics??

 

I used a Pro-Mustang front sump pan on my 347w/ girdle. No clearance issues anywhere. You can get them from Coast High Performance, Or I can sell you a partially flattened one.

 

I'm watching one on ebay that will fit, time will tell. This one's got a kicked out section immediately under the rear main cap for clearance. Ain't got time to get pics, sorry.

 

What actually hits the pan? The nuts or the studs? What kind of girdle is it? Are there spacers betwen the girdle and the caps? how thick?

The ONLY mods Ive ever had to do on a pan is for stud clearance, and even then, I just cut off the ends of the studs and that was it. Most of the girdles I've used came with junk studs and I replaced the studs with ARP studs and used ARP's washers between the cap and girdle and some more under the nuts. The ARP washers were thinner; which meant I had to grind the tops of the caps off a little. Easy on a bench grinder. Also bought a cheapie 351 girdle and I had to massage the pan a little at the front where the girdle comes around the oil pump, but that pan had seen several engine failures...all resulting in escaping parts, so the pan was pretty warped. It's been my experience (with 351's anyway) that the girdle doesn't do a whole lot, other than to keep some of the parts from coming out the side when it does break. Cap walk doesn't seem to be any better with the girdle than it was without one.

Let us know how it goes.

 

what style of pan do I need to install a 351 W in a 73 maverick??

 

The contact point is the rear main stud nuts and the radius where the rear wall curves to the floor. Can't cut the studs, they're flush with the top of the nuts. The pan I'm watching has a kicked out section at this point, where the stock pans don't, so it should fit.

 

Any front sump pan intended for a car.
If you look at aftermarket, then look for something to fit a 65-73 Stang.
The only thing you must look out for is pans with square kick-outs.
Angled kick-outs, like Milodon low profile pans, are okay.
They angle down and out.
If the kick-out juts straight out, it will hit the lower A-arm mounts.
Our arm mounts are closer together than other cars like the Stang.
Other than that one little difference, anything else will fit.
Dave

 

Quick examples:

Angled sump:
Fit


Boxed sump:
No fit


Deep:
Fit


Stock car or similar aftermarket:
Fit