im in the process of building a 302 for my maverick thats estimated to have around 400 flywheel hp im also getting my c4 rebuilt with a stage 2 or 3 shift kit and putting 355 or 380 gears in my rear end id like to do posi but i dont know that i will because this is my daily driver car but i do wanna take it to the strip from time to time and eventually i might make it a full drag car but anyways back to the point. the car was originally a 250 i6 what am i going to have to upgrade to handle this new found power i know ill probably need new front springs to make up for the weight of the new engine and i going to need to do any other suspension upgrades to handle the extra power and torque? i know it would probably be a good idea to swap to disc brakes. the 250 bellhousing is the same as the 302 bellhousing right? i also want to switch to a floor shift does anyone recommend a specific one? i think i might have missed something but itll come to me eventually. thanks drew
i have a B&M shifter..i love it get 302 springs for the front, or mustang springs, rated at 160 pounds or higher i think.. not sure though... go with a trak lock or a mini spool... track lok is better for everyday use, mini spool is a solid axle setup that doesnt give at all the bellhousing i am not sure about, i thought a 250 and a 302 had the same bell housing front discs are not mandatory but it will help.. i have heard some people have that much power and use drums with out problems
stock shifter... 250 6cyl. auto. springs will be fine... 250 bellhousing is same... disc. brakes would be a plus... powertrax /3:55 rear end... some type of traction bars... i have all the above with a 400ish hp. motor ... ...
I'm running a 5.0L with a t5, and actually lightened the front end up over the 250 I had in there, BTW, they are 200 auto springs, go figure
The 6-cylinder springs are actually stiffer than the v-8 springs. It has to do with the placement of the engines in the bay. the 6-cylinders are longer, and more of the weight is placed in front of the wheels, so it acts like a lever, and a stiffer spring is needed to support the added weight. The springs you have should be fine, so that's one less thing to worry about. Later,
might want to thik about some frame connectors to stiffen it up too. and maybe a higher torque convertor.
where can i get frame connectors? how difficult are they to install? what torque converter should i get? st what is the part number on your shifter and how hard was it to install? and what about the trak loks where do i get it and is it probably my best bet for a daily driven street/strip car?
I used a set of sub connecters from Mustangs Plus. Mounted no problem everything lined up and welded them in. Big difference in ride quality I think a traction lock is the best bet but the Torshen rears are even better. I run a Detroit Locker in my 9" and it ratchets bumps bangs and I love every minute of it It hooks like nobodys buisness too...
did you use a mig or a stick welder to weld your subfram connectors on? whats a good brand of traction locks? ive never heard of torshen rears do you have a website for them? detroit locker probably wouldnt be very good for a street car right?
i also have a 66 mustang thats fairly solid but is a project that i just dont have time for right now is there anything i could steal from that to help me out?
thats the only thing i cant do haha its technically my moms now because i sold it to her for the money to do my engine transmission and rear end, however i can take stuff from it because its a project car and shes having me work on it its got some stuff on it that it doesnt need too.
The Torshen and traction lok diffs can be found on the net or maybe in Summit. The Detroit locker is a matter of taste. I dont mind the occasional rough ride and have gotten good at making sharp slow turnes in it with out causing it to try to lock up. If you give it too much power when turning sharp and slow it starts to engage the gears and "ratchets" which is alittle jerky but when you get on the power you know it will give the power to both. It's the closest thing to a spool that still is drivable. The newer Detroits I have heard have smaller toothed gears and have a less violent ratcheting effect. It's hard to explain what its like if you have never ridden in one. 90% of the time I never get any noticable difference between it and an open diff. The number would be closer to 99% if the driver wasnt so fond of the gas pedal... The torshen rears are way smoother and more high tech. They actually split the power between the rear wheels depending on which is getting the most traction. I dont know how strong or how good they do their job but I havent heard anything bad about them eather. They dont use the small internal clutches that eventually wear out like a Traction Lok. Oh on the subs I think he used a mig. My friend welded them.
i havent been able to find the torshen or trak lok rear ends but maybe i just suck at looking for things i cant wait to get all of this stuff done and take it out to the strip im hoping to get it done before may 4th so i can do the all high school drags
