What is the general opinion on these heads versus the E7TE heads? The E7's seem to be pretty highly recommended, but the flow characteristics of the GT40P's seem to be a little better. It seems like you can buy built up GT40P's for not much more than the E7's. For those who have gone with the GT40P's, how much modification is required/recommended? I have a stock 302 and I am wondering if I will need to change to headers and if there is a relatively standard header that will work, or will I have to customize something or could I stay with the stock exhaust? I am wanting to build up a relatively reliable daily driver with good street performance. I am currently rebuilding the engine, and want to go ahead and make any recommended modifications, without going too wild on the spending (i.e. no aluminum heads, etc.) I would also appreciate any other recommended upgrades anyone might have that would be good to do while I have the engine out. Thanks.
I'm no expert on this, but here's my opinion: Stock for stock, the GT-40 P's are obviously better than the E7TE's. They have slightly larger valves if i recall, and are basically the "next step up" from stock. They're definitely better than the E7's, but not by a LOT. You can get the P heads new for about $500/set. Now if you ask me, you could get a lot more head for $500! (No pun intended!!). One of the local guys got a real nice set of ported and polished 351W heads with larger valves installed, decked for flatness....the whole works, for $550 on ebay. Not saying you'll be as lucky, only that it's worth looking around before you settle on anything. I don't know about the exhaust manifolds...i would bet they will need to be ported, at the least, to fit the larger exhaust ports. Someone else can correct me if i'm wrong....
Gt-40 Heads According to my spec book they require a 86-93 Stang exhaust manifold. Probably due to porand/or bolt pattern. Go with the E7 heads.
The GT40P heads are different from the GT40 heads, and the GT40P heads require unique headers. They only came on explorers. That's the big difference, since the plug location is different. They will definitely make more power than the E7TE heads, but you'll need an aftermarket header. They make them for the 'stangs, but who knows if they'll work on a 'real' car. I say go with the E7TEs, buy them used and put some Gt40 valves in them. That's what I did, and it is cheaper than buying some new GT40Ps. For street that will work great, I went 13.06@105.9 with mine. Of course if you want to go really fast you will need a better flowing head than the E7.
I'm not good with the code-name. I assume the e7te's are the stock head on 87-93 mustangs? These have a benefit if you put them on a stock bottom end old mav? Don't they have fuel injection holes? how do you get past that?
GT40P Heads Just put a pair of these on my '70 302 Maverick about 6 weeks ago. What a difference! They replaced a pair of '70 351W heads that were fully ported and polished, 3-angle valve job, etc. I smoothed and polished the valve bowls and and the exhaust ports. There is a lump in the roof of the exhaust port you should grind out, but you shouldn't enlarge or change the shape of the port much. It flows very efficiently as Ford designed it (approx. 75% of the intake flow). The only real headache involves the spark plug location vs. headers. I discovered that the original cast iron manifolds I had cleared the plugs with no problems, but who would want to use them? I ended up using special "shorty" plugs made by Accel and I put electronic distributor cap terminals on the ends of the spark plug wires. In all, I gained about 3/4" more clearance and the headers fit fine. The car sounds a little louder and definitely pulls harder.
oops-!!!Stupid mistake, I know, but you can tell that my later model cars haven't broken down in that area yet-which is good. So I have never really dealt with fuel injection b4
heads Jeremy, I have a set of 1968 302 heads that have 58cc chambers (E7s are 64-66), dual valves springs, screw in studs and guideplates, 1.94 intakes and 1.5 exhaust, the exhaust "smog bump" has been removed and the head bolt holes have been drilled to accept either 302 or 351 windsor head bolts. The smaller chambers and larger valves along with the ported exhaust will likely create a substantial HP gain over the E7TEs. All the heads need is a good cleaning and maybe the valves seated. They were used for only one race season and could very well be bolted on after simple cleaning and painting. I need to have 320.00 for the set. Let me know if you are interested. email wm12345@hotmail.com. Thanks, Ward. If you are unsure about dealing with someone on the board I can give my ebay name and you can access my feedback comments.
Thanks everyone for the input. I think I will go with the E7's. They seem to be getting harder to find around here (Austin, TX) and I guess maybe everywhere. But if I can find some and have them rebuilt, it sounds like that is the most bang for my buck. Now, my next question is will I have to replace anything else in order to use these? Or will I still be able to use my stock exhaust manifold? I am planning on trying to find a 4 bbl carb and intake combo from a mustang, but I think I will stay with the stock exhaust manifold and maybe have a dual exhaust made. Does this sound reasonable? I don't want to spend a ton of money, but I also don't want to waste money on one upgrade if something else should be done to take full advantage of the ones I do make. Thanks, 73Mav
The GT-40P has a drastically different spark plug angle. GTP's only have only about 10 degrees of angle and is pushed more toward the center of the combustion chamber to make it a fast burn head. The plugs look almost as if they are pointing straight out. Instead of 45 degree angle back and up 45 degrees, as with other small block Ford OEM heads. Ford's re-angle of the plugs in the GTP's eliminated spark knock problems. With the plug now more toward the middle of the combustion chamber, the flame front requires less time to reach all edges of the combustion chamber. Thus timing lead is reduced. I routinely pull my maverick on the trailer with a '98 Ford Explorer on 89 octane with no spark knock even in the 90+ heat in the summer and the a/c on... I had one off headers made for my Mave for the drivers side, fulll length 1 5/8' tubes and a 3" collector (keep in mind IHRA doesn't allow porting, so the small tubes are all thats necessary on my naturally aspirated 302. Some other engines you guys have will definitely benefit from larger tubes.). I am unaware of any bolt on headers (full length) for the GTP's at the current time. I begged and pleaded with Hooker and Hedman to make a full length header for the GTP's, because they would fit all the Mustangs, Fairlanes, Comets etc. All with one part no. But I was told no!.... bummer... The GTP's will work, and are a bolt on with the exception of the exhaust issue. The ports are exactly like the older L303 (GT-40's found on 93-95 Cobras) with the afformentioned re-angled spark plug and thus a 60cc chamber (5cc's smaller than L303's)... Raymond IHRA # 9208
powerheads sells E7TE's for $695.00 plus a core charge of $100.00. cnc-ported new larger valves etc,etc. Check them out @ www.powerheads.com might fit the bill for what you're looking for. on a side note the GT40P's outflowed ported C9/D0 351W heads without porting according to a test by fordmuscle.com
Gt40p Header HEDDMAN Racing division told me they may have gt40p headers for early model in three weeks. Thier r&d guy has family issues but is working on it. Here is the number for Mike but seriously, give him a few weeks. 770-664-8880
E7 heads are a decent starter head, look on the mustang messageboards and you can pick them up for cheap like 50$. The last set I got was for free.
What headers were these? Just bought mildly ported, new p's, for $395. Flow at .500 is supposed to be 218/156. Stock valves.
