Hi guys. I just rebuilt the complete front end on 72 Comet. Disc brakes,upper, lower control arms,centerlink,tie rods,cylinder,control valve,power steering pump,hoses, all parts were new or reman. Had alignment done. Car drives straight and does not pull. The problem is when I make a turn the steering wheel doesn't return to straight, I have to turn it back. Any thoughts would help. Thanks
make sure that who did the alignment knows older cars ......sounds funny but theres a lot of shops there alignment guy/gals are fresh from some sort of school and don't know what to do .......maybe a defec control valve....not letting the steering fluid to pass easy.... so it wont center......theres a good alignment shop out my way ....think it cost me 56 bucks
I would say the same thing. Check to see if the strut rod nuts have been moved and how far. As was said before, most people do not know old cars and they just dont adjust the caster. Or they diddnt put enugh in.
DING DING, we have a winner. That is the most logical place to start. Other Things I have seen. Defective tie rods/ball joints that are binding. Power steering isuues typically pulls you one way or another.
If it returns one way but not the other, then the control valve may need adjusted. But then it would probably pull all the time... If it does not return both ways, listen to all these other guys.
If steering parts are installed and they are to tight or if the steering gear box is adjusted to tight the steering will not center.
Not trying to sound condescending, but how can you install steering parts too tight? For ball joints, and steering linkage ends, the play is fixed in the way they are constructed. Tightening up the nut has no effect on it. I do agree if you misadjust the steering box you could cause binding.
He stated he had replaced the steering parts and control arms. He had the frontend alignement done. Just trying to think of something that might help. Just seems that any thing with a taper could be over tightend and any thing with a bushing could be overtightened also. But I could be wrong. It would not be the first time.
Worn out idler arm? Check it. Passenger side front frame rail just behind the starter I believe. L-shaped object. Seth
There is a lash adjustment on the steering gearbox. It is a screw with a lock nut. Loosen the locknut and turn the screw out and then back in - do this when the steering is centered - only when it is centered. As soon as you feel resistance hold the screw there and tighten the locknut. It should turn easily but have less than1/8 turn before the wheels move. If you used the poly bushings when you put the new parts on it is possible that the bushings are tight enough to restrict the movement. The "float" valve could be out of adjustment. I don't have the book in front of me so I am not going to trust my memory to tell you how to adjust that - there is a procedure in the book - follow it and you can't go too far wrong. If the caster was off it would not return in either direction so I don't believe that that is the problem. If you replaced the steering gearbox then you may have either air in the system or the "float valve" (centering valve) may be the problem. To bleed the system you need to block the front wheels so that they won't turn all the way in either direction. Then turn the steering wheel until the wheels stop it from going any further. Hold it there against the blocking for 10 seconds. Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir and keep it full. turn it gently back and forth a little more each time toward the center until it is centered. Now turn it to the opposite stop and hold it there for 10 seconds with moderate pressure against it. If you hear it spit or sputter then continue to hold it until 10 seconds after the last sputter. Work the steering wheel back and forth again each time just a bit more toward the center until it is in the center again. Check and fill the fluid again. Now turn it right and left until it binds against the stops about 10 times. Remove the blocks and put the car back on the ground and test drive. If it returns to center then it was air in the system if it doesn't then drive it to a shop to get the "float valve" adjusted properly or follow the book step by step until you have it finished and then test drive it again. If it still won't return to center then take it to a front end shop and ask them to tell you what is wrong.
Some cars this is a problem. Example Aerostar vans. They use a rubber insert in the tie rod joint. If you tighten the outer end link with the wheel not strait it wheel wander in that direction. Bene there done that
