Will a hydrolic roller cam rpm to 6500-6800? Does a 73 crank fit into an 89 roller block, so that I can use my older harmonic balancer/flywheel for my c4? If I use a mechanical lift cam, with 69 windser heads , what else do I have to do to use the solid lift cam? Can I use 89 roller motor rods/pistons in my older 302? Why does everyone frown on regular hydrolic cams, will they not rev to 6500 rpm's? with 69 351 heads that have been milled , do you think I will have any valve to piston clearance problems with a 550 or 580 lift cam?The valve size is 1.94/1.6. How much rpm's will the factory rod bolts in a roller motor handle?
Will a hydrolic roller cam rpm to 6500-6800? yes Does a 73 crank fit into an 89 roller block, so that I can use my older harmonic balancer/flywheel for my c4? yes If I use a mechanical lift cam, with 69 windser heads , what else do I have to do to use the solid lift cam? Depends on what you mean? Can I use 89 roller motor rods/pistons in my older 302? Depends on bore of old 302 Why does everyone frown on regular hydrolic cams, will they not rev to 6500 rpm's? I don't. I run hydraulic cams in both my cars. One engine makes 430 horses on a hydraulic roller. Also had a regular hydraulic that buzzed to 6800… but there are reason people use solid cams. But by your questions I'd stick to a hydraulic if you don't like adjusting vavles springs every so often. With hydrauilcs set it and leave it. with 69 351 heads that have been milled , do you think I will have any valve to piston clearance problems with a 550 or 580 lift cam?The valve size is 1.94/1.6. might depends on type of pistion your using How much rpm's will the factory rod bolts in a roller motor handle? I have seen stock rod bolts hang to 7500 rpms it all depends if its time or not
the '73 crank will not fit in the later block. The old style blocks have a groove machined into them for the lip on the crank, and the newer blocks do not have this. The lip on the crank lays directly on the block. Actually yes, the lip can be machined off to work in a later block....but that's extra $$$. The hyd roller engines will rpm pretty high, but they start to fall off from 6200 on up due to valve float. A rev kit can help this problem, but for simplicity's sake, a regular flat-tappet hydraulic cam is best for street cars. Piston to valve clearance, you'll have to check it to be sure. I would say yes it will clear....but it all depends on the timing events of the camshaft/valves. Yes the stock rod bolts are pretty tough....but heavy pistons and any sustained rpm over about 6500 will kill them pretty quick.
Questions... ...I agree with Maverick Man. There is nothing wrong with standard hydraulic cams. Remember, prior to 1985, few people had roller cams in a small block Ford anyway. There are several things that you seem to be attempting to blend to make one motor. I would make one suggestion. Either do lots of research so that you can make informed decisions, or find someone who really knows engine building to help you. Check magazines for suggested component packaging for specific outputs. There are several things that can go wrong or simply keep an engine from running correctly. As far as rod bolts, ARP rod bolts are cheap insurance. I think that I paid $45 for mine. Even though the stock ones will hold, peace of mind is comforting to me. Enough can't be said for having someone in a machine shop check trueness and structural integrity of rods, cranks, blocks and reworking cylinder heads. Also, the geometry of rocker arms, pushrods and valves is critical. There are various ratios of rocker arms, tons of lengths of pushrods and valves will vary in length as well. Valve manufacturers make 1.94/1.6 valves for Fords as well as GM motors. You have to know what you have as both will work in a SBF head like the Windsor head you are using. Good luck. Seth
Getting 6800 rpm out of factory windsor heads will be a trick. The money you would have to spend would suggest aftermarket. The goal shouldn't be rpms anyway.
If everything is set up for high rpm's, then why should that not be a goal? These windsor heads were heavely ported , even thru the pushrod wall. They were done by a pro head porter last year. The guy I know had a lot of money in them but needed the money so I got them for 300.00. They include titanium valves,screw in studs,guideplates,etc. Thanks Steve
City boy If you want a strong street car, I take it you are not wanting something capable of 200 MPH. They key to street performance is a happy medium between HP, Torque and RPM's. Torque is something that decreases as RPM's increase. And HP output typically diminishes at higher RPMS. Yes Higher RPMs result in higher top speed, but that is mostly useful in the world of stockcar racing and salt flat cars when talking about normally aspirated engines. A motor that makes good torque in the 2000-4500 RPM range is a good street engine. You should see peak HP in the 4800-5800 RPM range. Sure, you can build one to turn in 7000 RPM. Keep in mind you are twisting a 2 bolt main cap block, iron crankshaft, non-heavy duty rods, to near breaking point. Not to mention, when the optimum RPM range for your setup due to camshaft and cylinder heads is over 6,500 RPM, your operability at 3000 RPM and less, such as starting off from your driveway, is going to make driving your car similar to riding a wild horse. But, if that is what you want, Ride'm Cowboy !!! Good Luck- Seth
also keep in mind that just because an engine will spin 7000 rpm's doesn't mean it's making power at that level.....it could have quit making power at 6500, so what's the point in spinning it to 7000??
CometGT1974 make a very good point... a good example would be my car... the car will go to 6800 easy with no valve float at all... however on the dyno it peaked out at 6200. so why spin it passed 6200 or 6300? and just for kicks i took it out to the strip and shifted at 6200-6300 and another at 6800.. guess what? car ran the same time if a bit slower shifting at 6800.
