Identify a rear end

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Dean Deeter, Mar 27, 2006.

  1. Dean Deeter

    Dean Deeter Member

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    Ok guys I not sure if this is in the right place or not. I have a rear end that I do not know what it is. I was told it came out of a ford truck in the late 70's. I am wanting to go to a different rear in my 74 Comet. I would like to go to about a 3.25 apx. ratio. Here is the numbers that are on a plate bolted to the rear.


    wdm-ck 2f15
    3 25 9 s317b

    If any one can help me out I would appreciate it. Someone might know of a web site that can help me out. Thanks for your help. Dean
     
  2. rockndrifter06

    rockndrifter06 Member

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    my guess is 3.25 gears and is a 9in rear, but idk for sure just guessn
     
  3. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    i would agree with rockndrifter.... it is a 3.25 ratio and a 9" rear end

    would be a great addition to the rear end of a maverick...
     
  4. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    It is definately a 9 inch if it came out of a 70's Ford truck, unless the truck was a F250 in which case it would not look anyting like a 8/9 inch. You will have to have it narrowed, way to wide for a Maverick.
     
  5. Dean Deeter

    Dean Deeter Member

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    Yes it is to wide . I am trying to decide which is the best way to go. Have this one narrowed or buy gears and have them set up in an extra center section that I have.
     
  6. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    It's a 9" rear with 3.25 gears and peg-leg diff.

    If it is a 28 spline, you can lop off the axle tubes and put your Mav 8" axle tubes on it and bolt her in...
    The 8" 28 spline axles are same as 9" 28 spline diffs.
    Dave
     
  7. Dean Deeter

    Dean Deeter Member

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    Dave can you explain peg leg dif. Also what would should it cost to cut the rear to my size. Dean
     
  8. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    peg leg is when you hit the gas, only one tire breaks free.... and a Track-lock (posi) locks both wheels together so the power from the engine and tranny is shared with both rear wheels and both rear wheels brake traction (if given enough power )

    the way to identify a tracklock (posi) in ford rear ends would be like this

    wdm-ck 2f15
    3L25 9 s317b

    the L (between the 3 and 25) signifies LOCK as in Track Lock
     
  9. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    Around here we call it dog leggin' it. My car is really good at it from a standing start. :)
     
  10. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    I used to call 'em "one wheel wonders" but lately I've been using the "peg-leg" moniker.

    If you have a driveshaft shop around you, they can cut the old tubes and weld them back up pretty cheap. And any good welding shop can do it too. I like the driveshaft shop, as they are used to working with tubes all day long.

    Looks like it was made on May 15, 1972

    Not from a Pickup, I think all the tags started WBG and vans were WCR (at least for a 9in in 1972)

    Bronco maybe? A Bronco rear should fit. Anyway, you have a good part there.



    Eric J
     
  11. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    "Identify a rear end"

    if it is "wide and heavy" it is Terrys' :yup: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :rofl2: :rofl2: ...frank...:bouncy:
     
  12. Dean Deeter

    Dean Deeter Member

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    I don't know if it is that heavy..
     
  13. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    How much horsepower and torque are you planning on running? To narrow up a 9in is not just a slice off the tubes and put on different one's the right length. Calculating the center line of the pinion and the correct length of each axle, has to be done "exactly", for good driveability and longevity of gears and bearings etc. Then the spring perch pads must be put on for correct pinion angle for the driveline. If a shop has the "alighnment tool" to do this, it is fairly easy job. I have done some using just the axles, but is a lot more work. Welding must be done the correct way to prevent warping of the tubes etc. In some cases, you can just purchase a pre-cut housing from Currie or Strange companies, and save some time and even money in the long run. The little 8in will handle lots of abuse with an auto trans. Stick shift, sliding the foot off the clutch at high rpm, may not even be too good on a stock 9in, if you know what I mean. More gear choice's for the 9in is an advantage if you are racing etc. Just trying to help you make a decision on your particular application and driving habits, etc.
     
  14. Dean Deeter

    Dean Deeter Member

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    I am not going to be doing any racing. Just want to give it a little more power on the bottom end. And since I have this rear end was thinging maybe it would be a little cheaper than changing the gears and having them set up by a shop. I was trying to fine a center section only for the eight inch, but that seems to be almost a impossibility. So I guess the question rides on the cost of setting up the center
    section verses the cutting and changing (which I would do, thats the changing)the rear end. Dean
     
  15. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    i was kind of thinking along the same lines as i talked recently to a guy that does that type of work (narrowing the 9") and his thoughts were that it would be pretty expensive. especially after cutting the axles to fit. his thought was that it made more sense to go for an aftermarket than to do all that work. a lot of the street rod guys are using the 8" rears. must be a good rear for the street. i think for simplicity and cost i'd get the 8" set up. less work. less hassle. less expense. jmo:)
     

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