Okay folks, this one is fun.........really...... ..NOT! Got a new altenator on the maverick. Wasn't charging.......replaced the voltage regulator and now it's charging, but not enough. When I pull the batt. cable off, the car dies. Possible causes? I mean......ANY Possible causes!!! Please!?!?! I'm trying to get the car in order for a car show this saturday (Also meeting a new girl there) so I'd like for this thing to be operating good....... Also, I still haven't gotten my timing just exactly right.......I'm close, just not quite there. Car idles good, starts decent, but stalls when you nail it in gear. Any ideas of where to start the timing for my combo? 302 +.040, Flattop aluminum pistons, Ported/polished/shaved heads, Holley Street Dominator intake, Edelbrock 600 carb, Summit .448intake/.478exhaust cam, long tube headers, 2 1/4 inch exhaust. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Preston
your engine sounds exactly like mine... my cam is comp cams 477/484 lift ok possible causes my understanding.. if you pull off the cable from the battery and it dies, this means that the alternator is not keeping the electrical system alive... reasons.. bad alternator... yes they can be bad from the part shop... take it back and get it tested.. if it tests good.. its eliminated.. rule of thumb.. when you get an alternator.. test it before you take it home.. only takes them 10 minutes.. if the alt is good.. then the voltage regulator could be bad, but since you replaced it, its probably not bad.. maybe your starter solenoid is bad? or the condensor.. or the ignition switch also get the battery tested... it could be a defective battery what exactly is the car doing... what do you mean not enough charg?
I meant that when I pull the batt cable off the car dies........so I just figured that it wasn't putting out enough. When I stick a screw-driver to the back of the alt. it is magnetic........so I know it is charging some anyway. I may be wrong though.......this is not something that I know much about. Thanks!! Preston
You either have a regulator that is not calibrated correct or an alternator that is not putting out. A tough call only answered by some testing. Use a voltmeter accross the battery to see what the voltage does at idle and raising the speed well above idle. You should see at least 14 volts at idle and somewhat above that at faster engine speeds. as high as 15.5 volts. The voltage level you see is dependent on the state of charge the battery is accepting but you should see a good increase right after starting while the battery is calling for it's charge to be restored. If you see little movement or low voltage, either the regulator or the alternator is not performing even though you just replaced them assuming there are no wire or plug up issues.
A couple years ago I replaced the whole charging system in my jeep (ford charging system though) but it still would charge or run without the battery. After checking all the grounds and cleaning everthing it still wouldn`t charge or run without the battery. I finaly started tracing wires and tugging on them by the conectors and I found one that was broken inside the insulation .
I would say the regulator....seems to be one of the most "broken" new parts that has ever been purchased.
It's not that all uncommon to get a bad rebuild these days. Check the following: As you were told, start the car and test the voltage output across the battery terminals. Should be nearly 14 volts eapecially at a faster idle. The stock alternator puts out low amperage at idle and only maxes out at 60 amps at high revs if you can check amperage. Then check the output at the rear of the alternator. It should be nearly 14 volts regardless of what drain is put on the system. If these readings are acceptable, go back to the battery and while the car is running, start turning on accessories and see what happens. If the voltage does not try to stay high, the regulator is likely bad. Witht he modifications you did, you may be needing a bit more juice than the stock setup has the capabilities to deliver. Believe it or not, a higher performance engine needs a good strong electrical supply to allow the ignition system to deliver optimal performance. I might suggest an alternator upgrade. I have an excellent upgrade I posted a while back with a step-by-step installation and others have used different setups with success.
Checked the alt. last night, and it was not putting out at all. The batt. was also down to 10 volts by this time. Took the alt. back today and had them test it, and it showed 2 volts. Got a new one and made them test it before I left. 14.5 volts. I also picked up some female connectors, so I can bypass the corroded plug. Hopefully tomorrow will be running again. Thanks Folks!!
hopefully that takes care of that problem. one of the reasons a car dies when you put it in gear, even though it idles okay, is a vacuum leak. hope this helps.
timing, if she says slow down or no then your going too fast...ohhhh you meant the car.... definately check the sheet on the cam to start with cause they are all different. if it pops through the carb too early, if it rattles the exhaust valve its firing too late
