Not sure but it has a motorcraft 2bbl on it with wiring on it. The engine originally came out of an 89 Bronco. It also had a smog pump and a boat load of vacuum lines.
Maybe the seller had the year wrong. The aluminum tag on the carb says E4TE. Does that mean it's an 84 ??
If you look at the distributor; is there a module on it? If not, and there is a vaccuum advance canister, you are good to go. You only need to know which "box" you require. The "blue" or "red". The most likely one is the BLUE. Then just make a pigtail and connect the black wire to black, orange to orange, purple to purple, green to coil, red to switch, white can go to a switch to retard the timing at startup.(if needed) or just leave it unhooked.
There is a plug into the distributor that has six wires coming off of it that get lost in this mass of wires that wrap around the engine !!!
Boss9,, it takes 2 wires off the plug to make it run,,, Look at the plug,, start at the bottom, the #2 wire from the bottom, goes to the negative side of the coil, this would also be a tach wire,, #3 from the bottom,is your Start/run wire, this is where you hook up the power wire from the switch, and also goes to the positive terminal to the coil. if you have these wires hooked up, and have power to your switch wire, it will fire up and run on that computer distributor, without the computer. ChadS
:bananaman Finally an answer I wanted to hear !!! Was really hoping I didn't have to change a bunch of stuff. Thanks
Boss9, if you plan to permanatly use this distributor, find a MSD 6AL ingition box, and purchase the adjustable timing control, and mount it to the dash, or where ever you want. Just remember, if you do, the green/yellow wire is the trigger wire, this wire will signal fromthe distributor to fire the coil (-) side of the coil. this wire hooks into the electronic hook up on the MSD,,, Once you have this setup, you have full control of the timing, without the computer, but, its manually operated, you turn the dial on the timing control to change timing. Its great when you have bad gas,, you can tune it to where it always runs the best. Also works best when your at highway speeds, you can tune that baby in, and get gas milage, and some power. It takes a while to get used to, but its a great system. JMHO, Chad
Welp, here's another twist to this puzzle ! After stripping all the "useless" stuff off the engine today and degreasing it. I discovered that the block numbers are E3AE-6015-BA22. This tells me it was manufactured in 83 and probably installed in a 84 vehicle. Now will this change anything we've discussed previously ? At this point I'm considering going to a points setup and saying screw all this electronic BS !!
Now your getting somewhere. In my post 16, I mentioned that the engine could not be an FI engine. You already have the Dura spark dist. The control box color codeing should be ; White, red, green, orange, purple and black. The dist leads go to black (is ground), orange and purple. Green is to the coil neg. side. White to the ignition switch start term. Red goes to the ignition switch run term ahead of the dropping resistor. A lead from the ignition start term goes to the plus side of the coil so bypassing of the dropping resistor takes place during starting. This info is in the Chiltons book on 84-88 cars and trucks FI & engine control, pages 4-44 thu 4-49 on testing this system. You local library might have a copy.
