How do you guys get different years,please explain how you are reading these numbers. Does anyone know if there are roller cams or not in a 351?And if so, what year did they start. Thanks Steve
The first letter is the decade. C= 60's D= 70's E = 80"s etc. The next number is the year within the decade so D0 would be 1970, E4 would be 1984 etc. The rest is the part#
Mavaholic, You are alright, I thank you for the lesson. I am actually starting to learn some of this stuff. I am just worried that I will not be able to make this maverick run fast enough with a 302/306. Thanks Steve
im gonna be runnin a 302 but it wont be all stock. if anything happens to the 302 then ive got a 351 with police intercepter on it to drop in the car
Well,fast enough to beat the 12.90 LS1 even if he puts 100-150 shot of spray on the car. I will also add nitrous if I think I can keep the 302 together. I want to use a 302 or 331 because of all of the parts that came with the car. Edelbrock per. rpm intake Comp cams roller rockers Mallory dist./coil Hooker super comp headers c4 w/ TCI 10" Streetfighter stall The bad things are: 8" w/ 4.62 gears Factory unported heads w/ screw in studs& guideplates Deep dished Pistons. Me and my brother pulled the engine/trans out over the weekend and found all those parts, to our surprise. The transmission did not have the vacuum modulator hooked up, so I think that caused the seal to go out. That is why I got the car for $1500.00. The body is in really good shape for a 73. Sorry about all the detail. Steve
You've got some good parts to start with. You might want to go to your local parts store or jegs, summit and pick up desktop dyno, this way you can get a idea of what you can do with what you've already got. The Bad things you talked about are not so bad, if you are going to run the LS1 in a 1/8 race the gearing is not bad, but for 1/4 you will need a very tall tire. The deep dished Pistons will work better with the nitrous then a pop up dome, if you plan on spraying your motor, build the bottom end as strong as your pocket will let you. H-beam rods, ARP main studs and so on. Your factory heads can be made to breath better by porting, it just depends on how deep your pockets are. When I was 18 (1975) there was a saying SPEED COST.... HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO? It still holds true today. I hope this helps and as always just my two cents. Terry Gates AKA Bossmav
Thank you Bossmav, Do you, or anyone else know what the biggest 15" tire is that I can use. I have some kind of adjustable air shocks on the rear. Thanks Steve Napier
It should be noted that an E4 casting is indeed from 1984, but that casting number may be used until a change is made, so you might find that block in later model cars. I have had a number of late sixties cars with mid-sixties casting numbers from the factory. That's why you don't see all the "numbers matching" stink with Fords like you do with GM. Which is nice. My 1969 Cougar Eliminator with factory 390 had many 1966 casting numbers in it, as they didn't change the motor any.
Steve with out doing any mods you can fit a 28x10x15 slick on a 3.5 inch back spacing wheel, works on my Maverick. I've tried a 29 inch tire but I had to tap in the front of my rear fender wells. If you are looking for a street tire once again use the search engine here because this question has been asked a lot. Here is some help. tires sizes Click on the link above and you should find the answer to your tire size. If you plan on doing a lot of drag racing the first thing that MUST go is the air shocks they are no good for drag racing! Rear Maverick racing shocks are almost impossible to find, so you may have to modify or retro fit a set of Mustang shocks to work for you (65 to 70). Your sixty foot times are very important when you are talking about drag racing, the rule of thumb is for every 1/2 a tenth you can pick up in your sixty's you gain another on the top end, at least in a 1/4 race. Good luck with your car, and on beating the LS1 Terry Gates AKA Bossmav
