My tranny cooler lines touched the headers back in a small area behind the starter. I tweaked them around a bit and used a series of straps to tie/pull them in toward the engine in the touching spot. They are real tight and I only have .5 inch clearance at one point but they don't touch anymore but they are close so then I wraped the lines with heat wrap right where they get too close. I have a seperate aftermarket cooler. I don't seem to have any problems but I do get under there from time to time and check to make sure they are still tied away and the wrap does not come off the lines. I have headmen headers and my driver side was the closest side in my engine bay.
I was thinking of wire-tying them out of the way, for the short term. I am spending enough money on the current project (P-heads, headers, shock tower cut, Torker 289 intake, $13 spark plugs, and all the BS that is needed to install them). I will likely go with the stainless braided lines, so I can put them wherever they need to be, and move them at a later date, if needed.
I have headers that are the 6901's and we just determined that they hit the steering components when you turn the car all the way....mine are going to need to be dented a bit to allow for the clearence...my car is a 1969 1/2 maverick....I saw in this post that somebody else has headers that they had to do that to...I was wondering if this was a common issue, and if not what would cause that?
I also had a problem with trans lines touching the header on a former vehicle. Tweaked them as best as I could then wrapped them in that header heat wrap. Stuff does work great.
When I bought my 6901s used, somebody had already dented them in at the steering, so I have no problem. I don't know if it would have been a problem anyway, but lots of people have reported that they hit at full turn, but eventually dent themselves until they clear. Trans lines I just gently bent up by hand so they have about 2" clearance. No problems since.
hey scooper what are the condition of your motor mounts? older/sagging motor mounts can reek havok on the way headers fit in a car. hooker does stamp all of the headers,newer ones are on the outside of the header flange, but i have seen some old "survivors" where the # is stamped on the inside. also dont feel bad about bapping headers with the bfh, its part of life when your car is 30+ years of age,shock towers will sag. early stangs are notorious for this even without collision. hope it all works out for ya! jamie
I finally bought those fiberglass boots today, just two, for #6 and #7 cylinders, the rest have plenty of clearance. Actually, these do also, after putting in a bit of spacer with the header gasket. I now have about 3/8" between the top of the boot and the header, but I burned these two before the spacer, and now #6 is arcing. So, bought new boots for those two and two fiberglass shields. I took both headers off today and messed with plugs and boots, etc and installed new gaskets. They really aren't that difficult to deal with. I have been holding off for a while fearing it would be a major job. It didn't take nearly as much time as I thought. The more I do it, the easier it is, since I learn little tricks to removing and reinstalling the headers.
