Now, MY turn to get SCOLDED--Multiple Header gaskets???

I KNOW this is not the correct way to do this, but I am desperate.

I bought a set of those aluminum gaskets for my headers. Like we discussed in a prior post.

But since then, I found that I need more space on my driver side between the header and head, but I have no access to a "real" spacer/gasket. I figure 1/8" would be good, 1/4" would be better.

So, I also bought a set of the regular mr. Gasket exhaust gaskets, and I need to know what is the best configuration to use (for the short term) for multiple gaskets on that one side.

Should I go gasket-aluminum-gasket, or gasket-gasket-aluminum, and if so, aluminum against the head or header. OR aluminum-aluminum-gasket with only a gasket on the passenger side (where the original leak was)?

I will use the copper sealant I used on my heads the first time, between any layers.

The reason for the haste is I finally took my dad for a spin after doing the head/header/intake swap, and when I gunned it it just sorta sputtered and didn't accelerate like it should have. Later, while driving alone on the highway, I noticed little bursts of power, like I was giving it a small nitrous shot while driving. I figured I was grounding out a plug wire or two. Got home and found that I am getting a good spark at #7, but it is grounding against my header.

I know I am probably asking for another leak, but will this bandaid it until I can find/afford a 1/4" spacer?

 

, replace the header gaskets correctly and get some insulation for the wire and plug unless the plug is physically rubbing through the wire into the header. there is heat and electrically resistant wrap you can get for this and ive seen it at napa sold in singles if you just want to do one plug. if your already running the shorty plugs i seem to remember you wanting, you may have to tweak your header just slightly. if you do what your saying and drive it, youll blow the gaskets out REAL QUICK.

 

I have the shorties. I am also using the HEI distributor boots, but they just barely touch the header in a couple spots on the driver side (the BAD side). I don't need much clearance. How about just doubling up those aluminum gaskets? They are already 3 or 4 layers thick, just glued together at the ends. Would it hurt to put two on and make it 6-8 thick? then they would squish together like the original 3-4 layers would have.

I will check NAPA for that insulation...but I will still need a little clearance just to fit that stuff on.

PS--kept the receipt on the gaskets, because I figured you guys would talk some sense into me before I installed them.

PPS--now that I think about it, the guy that sold me the heads has the "header"/exhaust manifold from the Explorer that the heads came off of, and said I could have them for $25. that is cheaper than the gaskets I bought. If I bought the manifold (which is really a shorty header), and cut all the pipe off and made a spacer out of the flange, would I still need two gaskets (one on each side of the spacer) and if so, would the cheap ones be good or would I need two of the aluminum ones?

 

yeah you will most likely need two(one on each side of the spacer). the side where the spacer attaches to the head should be smooth and flat enough to use the regular style ones. the headers are not welded flat which is why you usually have to use the alum style. will they still fit in the car?

 

On the passenger side, where I currently have the leak from reusing the stock gasket (damn! I regret that now, and here I am trying to bandaid it again!) I have no room, but don't need it.

On the driver side, I easily have 1/2" of room, and I need the spacer on that side to clear the top of the spark plug boots. Luckily for me, I can take that header off and literally drop it to the floor, change my plugs, pick up the header and bolt it back on.

The passenger side I cannot move the header without jacking up the engine (it even rubs on the shock tower), but the plugs pop right out without having to move or loosen the header at all.

 

Get a header flange.
Put a gasket on each side, and use longer header bolts.
You can buy flanges from most header makers, or you can get a trashed set of headers and remove the pipes and welds.
Good luck
Dave

 

That is what I was thinking... but to be cheap I guess it won't work.

 

I have to use two of the regular gaskets on my 84 f150, one wont't last but a month or so, two will last six months to a year, but the truck doesn't get driven much. I just bought a set of the "blowproof" copper gaskets from Summitt I'm going to try.....

 

84--why won't one last a month?

 

Apparently my flanges are heat warped, when I put them on, the first set of gaskets lasted about 2 years, ever since if I use a single gasket it blows in a short period. If I double them, they last a lot longer. I hope the "blowproof" ones cure the problem.

 

Hmmm!?!?

 

Re-torque your header gaskets! That's why you go through them so fast. Install them and heat cycle once, then re-torque, drive a day, then re-torque, drive 500mi or a week for daily drivers, re-torque, then after about 1000mi do it once more. you probably won't be able to get much of a turn the last two times. If you do this, you a a lot less likely to have header flange leaks. It doesn't matter what kind of gaskets you get, you should still do this. The copper ones are nice though, since if you forget and develop a leak you can generally just tighten it down and be okay whereas with the composite or paper ones you'll have blown the gasket out.

 

listen to ray... but don't quote me on that cuz i might change my mind

 

Hahahaha!

 

The more gaskets you stack, the more you torque, the more to expect to bend the header flanges and lose sealing later with single gaskets.