I went to pick my brother up from School and when I was at the stop sign the stupid car dies on me. Took me about 10 mins to get it going again. The choke was open all the way...I think. My Maverick runs great when driving, but if I'm stoped for too long the car will shake kind of hard. Today it just died after a min of waiting for the cars to go by. It's really cold today, but I let it warm up more then enough. What could be causing this? I do know of one problem (bare with me - I don't know every part of the Carb.): The Carburetor. The part were the fuel goes through, Valve Seet (I THINK). Anyways, I must tap that a lot to get it unstuck. Also, the flot might be bad. It doesn't have a hole in it, but there is a crack.....but doesn't hold gas. I'm getting another, and should be here tomorrow. Do I need a new Carburetor? It's the same one that was in the car when I bought it....and is probably the one that came with it in '74. Will a new flot help? And, I haven't had my Maverick that long, less then a year. So I'm still getting everything worked out. Thanks for reading. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
What I would do if you aren't up to rebuilding the entire carb, is go buy a $12 rebuild kit and put the new needle and seat and gaskets from the kit in when you put the new float in. Then just put the rest of the kit up for a rainy day or something. Check and make sure the main jet is nice and clean and everything while you are in there. You didn't mention what kind of carb this is or what engine. Also, I would check to make sure it's idleing high enough. Sometimes if they are idleing to low, what you are discribeing can happen. If your float is cracked then it definately needs to be replaced ASAP. If it starts leaking, your engine is going to flood and leave you stranded.
My father and I have rebuilt the Carb. many times...forgot to post that. Might not have done the seet, I think we did a different part. I'll find out tonight sometime. Motor's 250. Carb's made by Motorcraft. That's all I know. I'm really knew to all the car stuff, but I'm learning a lot. Here's some pics of my Carb: http://members.cox.net/mytobyrules/Carb1.BMP http://members.cox.net/mytobyrules/Carb2.BMP Hope that helps. If not, I'll find out later tonight. EDIT: The head has been rabuilt, so that shouldn't be contributing to the problem.
Thats a Carter RBS carb. Looks like the needle and seat is fairly new since the outside of it is still shiney. Does it idle like that all the time or is it just every now and then? If it's all the time try idleing it up some. If it's just every now and then, I don't know. Mine does the same thing about once a month. I've heard of several other 250's with Carter RBS carbs that do the exact same thing every now and then also. Never have been able to figgure it out. Might want to look for vaccum leaks? That can make it idle rough.
Shoestring; check the vacuum lines to the trans, carb and vacuum advance. See if the lines are off the fittings, cracked, dried out or broken. This might cause your problem. Good luck!
I'll be sure to check everything you said, Earl. I know I have some vacuum lines pluged, but I might very well of missed those. I might not be able to find them, but my father knows where they'll be. If he doesn't, could you tell me where I could find 'em? Thanks a lot. Jamie; it doesn't always idle like that, every now and then. It actually idles good as I was able to get it (while in "Park". Should I adjust it with it in "Drive"?). But when I hold my foot on the break it shakes a tiny bit after a while, but it has never died. Weird how other people have the same problem with the RBS (I just noticed that was on there, good job on figuring what type of Carb. I had), something must be going wrong, somewhere. Thanks a lot for the advice, guys. I'm going to check for them vacuum lines now.
I'll bet thats the problem. Have someone get in the car, set the parking break firmly, and then hold their foot on the brake. Put the car in drive and slowly turn the idle screw clockwise until it idles smooth. I'd about put money on it the engine is bogging down because you are idleing to low.
my guess.. if you have to bang on it to get it un stuck... you need to deep clean the carb.... take it apart.. and clean and lube the moving parts... and yea.. when its cold you should have the choke closing a little bit.. this allows more gas and less air to go in... if the air is rushing in too fast in the winter, its colder air due to the venturi and therefore make the gas more dense and harder to ignite... also if its not idling good when cold the idle could be a little too low... any carbureted car should be adjusted for winter and summer times... cars dont run the same in differnet seasons... and you should make some adjustments to get it right... sounds to me like you have it set up right when its warm.. but cold is a pain.. put the manual choke on it... and richen it up a little on the idle set screw... good luck
There's 2 idle adjustments. The first one is for normal idle in park the secound is curb idle. What I think your saying is when you stop it dies. If thats it than adjust your curb idle thats the screw on the right looking at it from the drivers side. That should help with is dying.
Ok. My father and myself went out lastnight and checked everything. The idle setting is best as we could get it, even in "Drive". stmanser; What's a good deep cleaning product? And everything else you said, we did before yesterday ...about 3 weeks ago (cold has been on and off for a while). We got it started and it was running normal as always. Started to mess with the choke and the Carb. floods out. I had this probelm before, but I haven't seen it for, man, about a month. Last Saturday it returned, ran good for over a week (yesterday). Now, it's only flooding out. I don't have a manual choke. I'll look into getting one today along with my new Carb. float (that probably won't help, hahaha). Thanks a lot for the help. Any other sugustions will be appreciated.
just get any carb cleaner/intake cleaner... take the carb apart and clean it thoroughly.. if stuff is "sticking" as you put it, then there must be some gummed up parts... and they arent moving/working as designed..
It's not the Carb. I stuck the new float on, and inside the part where the seet is, was something red. Looked like copper, but wasn't. It was pretty good in size, and I have two filters before gas gets to the Carb. Both are new, but I have no idea how fine they are. I while back I fixed the gas tank. Had a lot of rust and gunk. It's really clean now. So it shouldn't be causing any problems. All the gas lines under the hood are old....probably hasn't ever been changed. I know I did a little bit of the gas lines under the car. Should I change all the gas lines? Thanks for the advice.
Never hurts to replace the fuel lines on an old car. Even if they look good from the outside, they can be rusting from the inside out like mine were. The steel lines running under my car looked prefectly fine from the outside. But when I took them off and let them dry out for about an hour I tapped one on the ground and all kinds of rust came out.
