Need a tool for primeing engine oil

I have a 302 thats real close to being none. I'm about ready to prime the engine, but I cann't find the tool that you use to turn the oil pump. Does anybody know where I can get one. Thanks

 

You can either use an old dizzy with a drill chucked to it. Or, Jegs and Summitt sell a tool for a few bucks..

 

I use 4 magnetic extensions for those screwdrivers that you can change the bits on. Put four in line, and put them on a drill, and let er rip. Cost me about a dollar at the local hardware store.

Warning, I think there are two sizes of the screw, so make sure this one fits. I think it is 1/4".

edit--I tested it and took a picture, it only took 3 to get down the distributor hole.

Scott

 

That's a heckuva idea Scott!
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reminder (to any reader) - use reverse drill

 

Take the cam gear off first!! Thanks for the reminder Rick..

 

i used an old 1/4 extension with a socket welded to it. would hate to have it come apart.

 

I found some hex rod and chucked it into the old drill and voila!

 

Hmmm..... You might have a point there.

My (borrowed) homemade primer still has the o-ring on the old dizzy (and presumabley seals).

I also used the hold-down tab for the distributor too - thinking it might try to jump off the hex if not held down.

 

No, you do not need to seal off the distributor hole to fill the lifter galley (thankfully that it is one of GM's "bright" ideas, not Ford's). All you need is something to turn the oil pump.

 

even if you use those magnetic extensions, put them together and then spiral wrap them with electrical tape like a wire loom. Last thing you need to do is drop one in the pan.

 

Hey thanks for the idea's. I'll give it a try.

 

Me too.

 

1/4" drive 1/4" socket on a drill...spun backwards works fine. Usually cheaper if you already have one in the toolbox too (cheaper than buying a $50 priming tool..or buying a junkyard distributor). Just put a little tape around the socket and extension so the socket doesn't come off when you pull it back out. 5/16" on most any other Ford engines....including a 2.3 4 cylinder. Same principle...spin it with a drill.

 

Lifters and valvetrain are plenty tough to survive the first start up. It's the bearings you have to worry about. I've always just used a 1/4" drive extension with a socket. I permatex blue the socket on so it doesn't fall into the pan.