You Want How Much for BOXED Lower Control Arms?

well i couldn't see paying $249 + dollars for a set of boxed lower control arms.. thats way out of hand... for another $100 bucks might as well get the tube ones.

so well... i decided to go to my friends welding shop and cut up some nice sheet metal and had him weld some up for me. god i need to learn how to weld! now all i gotta do is paint this thing. all this is an just a test so i can really do it right on the next rebuild on my other cars. the pic is one of a stock one an the other is the newone with the boxing.

anways i ended up shaving one of the busings down two far since i put aftermarket poly ones in. they really didn't fit cuz they were too long and i couldn't get them in the.... (whats that called anyways?) cuz it was too tight. but like i said, i shaved them down to work.. but got carried away on one of them and shaved too much now it just slips right in rather then having some resistant. so i think i gotta press it out and start all over again.

question to all of you.... does there need to be some of the bushing touching the frame and have resitanance where the lower control arm goes in? or does it matter. after pulling any older one out before it seems they are so beat up its hard to tell if it should have any bushing at all between the (whatever you call it.. the place where the lower arm bolts in) thats not right.. right? i'd figure there would be some kind of rubbing or something.

also i noticed that it seems it don't matter which way the pushing goes in... even though one side as more meat then the other side... that i don't get.


oh yeah check out where the sway bar endlinks go on the lower control arm .. cool huh?

 

ok you lost me whats the point in it?

 

Since I have never seen one bend other than an accident, just seems like a lot of work for nothing. I guess if you was going to road race it, it might help but I doubt you would notice or be able to measure any difference. Certainly looks cool though.

 

"thats not right.. right?" ...frank...

 

Looks great! But that was my question as well: Do the lowers need this? I plan on yankin the front wheels and running 9's, do my lowers need this????

BTW, I got the same rebuild kit from California Mustang...Niiiiiiiiice.

 

Well, let me whip out my two cents worth here

As far as we have been able to tell with our testing at RRS the boxing looks cool but really doesn't do anything for rigidity of the control arm we have even looked at adding boxing just to make the part more jazzy looking--but not to help the structure of the part. If you want to "improve" the part you'd need to add urethane bushings and a race type sintered bronze outer ball joint.

And that goes for the tubular arms too. They look hot but really don't make any big difference over the factory style lowers--unless they use the afformentioned bronze ball joint.

I have said this before, lower control arms are kinda like womens panties. The Fredricks stuff looks great on 'er but in the end, they both do the same job; one is just sexier (and more expensive) than the other.
Jeff

 

womens panties...but in the end, they both do the same job...

Keeps dandruff off the floor?

 

yes mr. McDanels, if that is what YOU think they are for then absolutely.

 

Love that analogy!!

 

I LOVE THIS BOARD!!!

 

(Homer's voice)
"Marge, I don't get it..."