engine temp update I was reading the threads on your problem of running hot. If it ony does it at idle my sugestion would be to richen the mixture on the idle circit of the carb, not the jets on the main metering circit.If a holly carb the 2 little screws on the side of the block(behind the front bowl)if a stock carb they are on the bottom of the carb.If a edelbrock carb I think they stick up on an angle right in front on the bottom.Close them & count the number of turns in & open them the same # of turns out(both the same # of turns)try out 1/2 turn more or 1/2 turn in less,listen to the engine running while you do this try to get the idle smoth if stock cam or as smoth as posible with a aftermkt cam.If you go to rich it will load up on fule lean it out alittle till it does not load up anymore but not to lean where it will run hot.It might take a couple of days but you will get it.I run a 10:1 351 w on pump gas in Fl.(95+ degres)with a stock 3 row rad.no shroud flex fan and I have had no problems above 200 degres unless I sit for a long time(not enough air flow).I hope this will help.
i have already played with the fuel ratios... i have narrowed ot down to timing....or inadequate water flow...but thanks.... and welcome to the forum....i notice...your first post was to my thread....thats cool...
hot I never knew about this forum untill I started surfing the web,looking for mav parts.I have been just moving through the site,reading all the threads and came across yours and remembered my ordeal with overheating poblems.I do not know much about your engine setup or how old it is but another thing you can consider is rust & debris in the engine block(cooling passages)around your cylinders.I had a 289 that had a problem with it.I removed the freeze plugs and sprayed water in and around the block.When I put the 351 in I had a hard time with the pulleys,the wrong size on the w/p or crank will cause the water to flow too fast or too slow.I hope this helps.
hot I never knew about this forum untill I started surfing the web,looking for mav parts.I have been just moving through the site,reading all the threads and came across yours and remembered my ordeal with overheating poblems.I do not know much about your engine setup or how old it is but another thing you can consider is rust & debris in the engine block(cooling passages)around your cylinders.I had a 289 that had a problem with it.I removed the freeze plugs and sprayed water in and around the block.When I put the 351 in I had a hard time with the pulleys,the wrong size on the w/p or crank will cause the water to flow too fast or too slow.I hope this helps.
the block is about 1.5 years old since the rebuild....i am running a mild race setup....runs 14.5 int he quarter.... i had the heads off abuot 3 weeks ago doing a port job and head swap and the water jackets were still clean...the only thing was the water holes in the head gaskets were alittle restrictive...but everyone said to leave them alone... other than that...i havea stock 4 row radiator and a 17 inch flex fan and shroud stock water pump....MSD igntion all around....9.5:1 compression flat top pistons... 484 cam... block bored .040 over..... alot of people have the same setup as i do...but i also live in tucson arizona....outside temps were over 110 for 3 weeks
lol..... what i meant to say was. ...i will take out the old mechanical temp gauge....take it into the house and put the water part of it into a pot of water...and use a meat thermometer and see how accurate my gauge is....
A quick and cheap old school trick is to cut (4) 2" spacers and put them between the hood and the hinge. Use 2-1/2 inch bolts to bolt on the hood. This will open up the back of the hood kind of like a a cowl hood - only it is free if you can find 8" of pipe and 4 bolts laying around. I did it to mine and it lets a TON of hot air out from under the hood. Takes a lot longer for my car to heat up in the staging lanes. Cleaver
