Well, as I once heard a Yankee say (referring to the weather in Houston), "It's not the heat. It's the stupidity."
actually its a lack of options....i was in the Air Force....and in their infinite wisdom, they felt that i needed to go to tucson and work at Davis-Monthan AFB for 4 years... after i got out....i was kinda stuck....and i applied at raytheon and was hired on the spot... so here i am... i heard it best one time from a homeless guy...pan handling for money to leave tucson....he said," Tucson is a stopping place for alot of people...either by choice...or the fact that on their trips to cali or elsewhere, their cars broke down..and they are stuck here...looking for money to leave" makes sense....why else would you want to live in an oven....and my wife and i are desperatly saving money to leave tucosn early next year.... prob is..she wants to go to davenport, IA and be with her sister and their family...and i want to move to Washington state to be with my parents (my parents are getting up there in years and both have health problems.....and i would like the kids to see their grandparents.....but their are a lot of issues about non of us getting along very well that makes it difficult to want to move up there.....) hear i am....suposed to be talking about engine temps and i am spilling my guts to you all... i will stop now...sorry
No worries mate. We should help each other with all things, not just our rigs! If you come up to Washington just be prepared for the maddening rain outs at the drag strip. So you can either live in a oven or soak in a tub! And if you still have cooling problems, you might want to try the water routine and maybe the 40 Below (by Pro-blend). I've heard it is a little better than the Royal Purple/Red Line stuff, but I haven't personally tried that version, so I can't say for sure...LOL! Have a good one. -155 Also check out this Car Craft tech article; http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/53738/index4.html Water Vs. Antifreeze Water is the best coolant. The antifreeze makers will tell you that Glycol-based coolants raise the boiling point, but even using a 50/50 water/glycol mixture, with a 15-psi pressure cap the boiling point is only 15 degrees more than plain water. If your car is not driven under freezing conditions, run pure distilled water plus a corrosion inhibitor such as Prestone Super Anti-Rust, and flush the system once a year. If freezing is a concern, use the minimum percentage of antifreeze required for your climate. A 33 percent glycol/water mix won’t freeze until 0-degrees F. Water has 2.4 times greater thermal conductivity than ethylene glycol. Glycol is also much more viscous than water; the more viscous the medium, the less the heat transfer rate.
if i move to wahington state...i will be in squim...and port angeles..... on the banana belt... not too much rain there 15 inches or so annually...from what my parents tell me
Brain freeze? Yeah, the millions of cars that run there all their lives with the ac button perpetually on sitting in traffic and never overheat must just be flukes. And we Arizonans would NEVER laugh at the weather in the NE during the winter because in all those reports we see of people scraping a foot of snow off their windshield in a -20 windchill, .....you can tell they all really love it. Waving your middle finger at the news camera must translate to "Whoohoo, one more foot of snow!!!":chillpill
lol I think I'll take the Alabama heat over NE winter any day... a bud of mine prefers the cold, he says you can only take off so much clothes in the summer... my problem is I can cover to the point of being immobile and I'm still freezing... I aint made for cold. As many people as I know all over that have no cooling issues, I have no doubt these cars can run a normal operating temp (under 210*) without heavy modifications. The problem is getting the performance mods just perfect as to not increase operating temp while not being run hard. I think the AF mix probably has more to do with a lot of our problems than anything else, and I'm still convinced I have some sort of blockage in the block... or my timing chain is stretched so badly my valve timing is way off... 30 years and 120K miles on it, I'm sure its due for replacement. btw, what is a good aftermarket aluminum 4bbl intake with water passage on the front and back? I do wonder if that water port being blocked by the Performer 289 may not have more than a little to do with it... although mine ran hot on occasion with the stock intake as well...
Rat's ass site Scooper, this one works. http://www.ratsassracing.com/id3.html And you can even get a t-shirt. I think they use ratter wetter.
Now I understand. ST, now I understand why you want to move. You work at Raytheon. It's not the heat, it's the stupidity. lol. That plant has been the most screwed up place in Tucson for decades.
maverikrick!!! You found one! I didn't believe they were serious until I clicked on the link. Back to the thread, I never thought about straight water with an additive. I think I will lose the glycol completely. Will that additive stuff lube the water pump, or does the water pump really need "lube". I always thought the pump just needed a layer of water to lube it.
I'd guesstimate the pump would wear out a little quicker with straight water. Glycol is slippery/stickie slop which does "lube" the pump bearings somewhat.
What is a good temp for the car to operate at? I have a new truck that stays around 175 all day but it has a v6 in it.
lol./....good one.... maverickrick.....if it wasnt for the stupid people at raytheon, the US wouldnt have the firepower and technology that was once made up and created by Hughes Aircraft and Hughes Missiles.... yes there are stupid people everywhere....and i am sure there are stupid people at your place of business, but i didnt make that post. thanks for the update...
