Anyone have any good links to mini tubbing a Maverick? Can you move in the springs, and just split the wheelwells? If so, whats the biggest tire you can get back there? Thanks in advance....
Sorry, I've got no wisdom for you. I can tell you though, a torch, a welder, and a lot of patience and the sky's the limit.
Yes, moving the springs in and sectioning the wheel house is a can do. You can pretty well get any tire you want in there, but, until you stretch the wheel opening itself you are somewhat limited. I am going to do away with the springs on my 71 and do a trailing arms setup. Then I will section the wheel house, and leave the wheel opening stock. Dan
I contemplated it, but looking at the frame rails towards the front of the wheelwells, you will notice a maximum of 2" clearance gained after moving the springs in.To get more room, you would have to chop the frame rails and move them too. Just seems like alot of work for 2" of clearance.
No sense in mini tubbing it. You won't gain much. Any tubbing at all might as well be a full tub. Mini tubbing is keeping the rear seat. The rear seat on a Maverick is already to the frame so It would be a lot of work to gain a little. I was going to do the same thing but after I looked at it and took measurements I decided that it was not worth it because I wanted to retain my rear seat and not alter it.
Ok, Nick, or anyone else... So can you re-mount the stock springs inboard, leave the frame rails in place, and stick a bigger tire in there? Thanks!
First off, use the search button. This topic was discussed a while back. It's a lot more work, IMO, than just backhalfing it altogether. 28x10.5-15's fit in the stock wheel openings, stock springs, rear end...everything. Lots of people have gone 9's on 10.5's...and many turbo mustangs have gone in the 7's at nearly 200 MPH.....so it's possible to have a fast car with the factory-type rear suspension. If you want big tires, just backhalf it and be done with it. You'll lose about 200 lbs weight off the car that way as well. Backhalfing mine netted .3 improvement in ET over a previously tuned stock-type suspension...which worked really good, BUT, the 32x14's and the 4 link is the ONLY way to go. Car drives SOOO much straighter now. Only time I can see mini-tubs being worth the effort is if you want to save the back seat or if the rules won't allow a full backhalf.
Mavman, thanks a bunch for the response! I appreciate it. I did use the search, and didn't come up with anything. I probably missed it...What type of setup do you have in your car motor wise?
See signature. 415w (.060" 408) with a Ron's Flying toilet injector. Nothing special really, cast crank, H beam rods, light flat tops, etc...heads haven't been touched with a grinder either. RIght out of the box Victor Jr's. Probably could be a little quicker with a set of AFR 225's, but I didn't want to have to re-do the headers. They already hit the floor. http://www.mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t-5287&highlight=backhalf http://www.mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=5309&highlight=backhalf http://www.mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=5393&highlight=backhalf there's 2 good sources for backhalf pics....in order from cutting the floor & frames out to the finished product. Just in case you're wondering, I also did a Mustang 2 front suspension as well...after I did the backhalf. The M2 wasn't nearly as simple as the rear, but wasn't too bad all in all. LOTS of work, cutting, welding, re-welding, etc, but well worth it! I think if you search for something like "99.9% finished" you will find the thread w/pics for the M2 swap. IF not, you can always email me....I still have a few pics left on my computer.
has anyone opened up the wheelwells lengthwise (front to back) to get, say a 30 x 10.5 in there? Just wondering.... Thanks!
