Opinions please, I just got my new compcam #31-609-5 It is a solid lifter for drag use! This is my first go round with a solid lifter cam and wonder how much power it will make in the 306 cu in? Vic jr heads and intake, H beam rods and 10.5 compression lightweight pistons....your thoughts... Richard
lots. My cam is a bit smaller and my heads are performer RPM units and my car scares little children and runs very strong. Suprisingly small dyno number of 312 at the rear wheels has been good for 11.96 on drag radials so far. Those heads should be good for lots more.
A move up in RPM's and that elusive 11 second timeslip...lol Len has been telling me to go this route for awhile! Richard
Better have a BIG stall in that converter. 250 degrees intake duration @ .050" lift is a ton. Ought to run great on the big end....provided you've got enough carb. Personally, (and this is just me...no knock to anyone) I don't even bother with solid lifter camshafts anymore. A roller is a bit more pricey but you can get plenty of lift without having to deal with ultra-high duration numbers at .050". Good Luck with it!!!
i am running comp cam exteme energy .484 lift cam.....i run 14.5 at 95...in the quarter...i have not dynoed yet... i will be getting the 268h 512 cam...i heard it is awesome for the 302...
Now IF have a 5.0 roller block these TFS cams are really good. TFS-51402000 Good idle, strong midrange power. Aftermarket intake, heads, and headers recommended. Compression ratio: 9.0:1 to 10.5:1. 221 intake/ 225 exhaust .312"/.319" .499"/.510" 112 centerline TFS-51402001 Fair idle, good midrange power. 2,500 to 3,000 rpm stall converter or five-speed recommended. Compression ratio: 9.5:1 to 11.0:1. 224 intake/ 232 exhaust .339"/.352" .542"/.563" 112 center line TFS-51402002 Rough idle, strong top-end power. 3,000 to 3,500 rpm stall converter with 3.90 to 4.11 gears recommended. Compression ratio: 10.0:1 to 11.5:1. 236 intake/ 248 exhaust .359"/.372" .574"/.595" 110 center line I've used the first two in 302 based engines with great success. The biggest of the three I've used in both a 331" (302 based), a 351" (windsor based) and in a 393" Windsor. You'd be shocked at how decent the driveability is and how quick the throttle response is when you tag it.
I also run vic Jr intake and heads, but on a little bigger inch engine. I love my heads, but can't imagine them on a "little" 302. Better have a 5000+ converter and a GOOD carb...and I honestly think that 10.5 compression isn't going to cut the cake, unless you have a "smaller" cam...and even then, the ports are so large on the Jr heads that it'll have a tough time making any torque down low. Not knocking your combination at all...in fact, it should run great. It's just not optimized....in layman's terms, there is some more potential there! The Jr heads are great heads...for the money. People keep knocking them, saying that AFR is the way to go. Probably so....but they outta work REAL good for nearly $2000 investment, which is about $800 more than the Jr heads. Mine are bone stock, no porting whatsoever. Only work done to them was welding a rocker pad back on that broke off last year during and engine failure (broke crank) and resurfacing. That's it. My times are equilavent to 9.80's in the 1/4 mile I would guess (never run 1/4)...so those heads can't be too shabby. Perhaps if someone wants to supply me with a set of AFR 225's or a set of canfields to do a real world comparison, maybe then I'll make the change. But, for now...I ain't paying $2k for heads! Oh dern...I forgot to add the cam specs. 270-274 .700" lift, 106.
I agree with mavman......I bought the 205's and if I would have done it again with this motor....I would have bought the JR's or the 185's....I think when I build my 400+ windsor motor the 205's will really shine! But on a small c.i. motor, the 205's are over kill.
205's too big? John, my ports are around 205 cc and I am running 296 CI. It is all relative to placing port velocity around the engine speed you want max power. In a small CI motor with a large port you really have to turn it up to reach port velocity of 260 fps which is where most engines make max torque. If you are running on the street and a daily driver type car you need a broad flat torque curve from 2500-5500. The above cam with 250 degrees duration @ 0.50 is a stout cam for the street and probably want even start making power til about 6000 rpm.
I am surprised that nobody picked up on the fact that a solid cam is much milder duration vs duration when compared to a hydraulic cam... That 250* duration @ .050" on a solid cam will behave like a 230-235 hydraulic cam. Solid cams have much better low end and throttle response as well. The car in question is built well for this cam IMO... without seeing ALL of the specs, mind you. Dave Edit: I agree that your compression is low for your combo. You can adjust your lash a little tighter to compensate some. I also think you are running too much carb. Ask anyone here, I am always arguing for bigger carbs...
my cam specs are: The card says Duration at .050* Tappet lift 255 intake/258exhaust Then it says Advertised Duration 286 intake/289 exhaust I assume the first is the actual numbers. Lift is 642 intake/626 exhaust I do know the computer dyno says it makes the most power at 7,100 rpm's. ***interesting.
