Well, after takeing the Mav for a "half" illegal spin down the street yesterday (I know, I know...) and gettin er up to about 65 mph, I noticed a leak on the driveway when I walked outside today. I'm guessing this is probably the first time in over 10 years that the car has seen speeds above 25... She crusies nice at about 55. So what seal is this and how hard is it to replace? Also what kind of lubricant does the rearend take since it looks and smells mighty nasty, and I was planning to change it sooner or later anyways. Thanks.
80w90 i think good ol petrol 80w90 or some such hypoid gear lube. that's why it stinks, hypoid always does. looks to me like the pinion shaft seal. maybe it will fix itsself lol. I've never taken apart my dif. but someday would like to add locker and 3.73 gears to it:evilsmile
Yep, pinion seal leaking. They never get better, only worse. Got to do the same thing on the ole workhorse 84 4wd F150 pretty soon. Gear oil does have a pleasant odor to it, don't it? Mix 1/2 85-150w with 1/2 Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer when you fill it back up. The Lucas has an great stick to it and really climbs the gears well. I have used the Lucas 100% but I perfer to mix it 1/2 and 1/2 with oil. You can get it at most parts stores and some Wal-Marts. I run it in all my vehicles 10% in the engine oil. My Explorer has over 200,000 miles on it and still has great oil pressure. Great stuff.
Clean out the vent on top of the housing before you do anything else. I guess the 8 inch is the same as a 9" with the vent on top? The vent only has a small hole in the fitting so if it gets clogged up it will allow pressure to build up in the housing when it heats up. Worth a try. clint
pressure vent my pressure vent on 8" (which you have) is on axle housing where brake line "T's" off to drum lines. I might be WAY off, but if i recall, my press vent hooks to a rubber line, connecting to the gas tank?????
The seal isn't difficult to replace. The hard part is breaking loose and retorqing the pinion nut. With out looking up the spec I think it takes over 200 lb ft.
220 ft. pounds!? Holy freakin' crap! I'll give that one a double "eek"! I'm going to have to give it a shot my self, we simply do not have the money to pay someone to fix anything. My 71' F250 has been leaking the same way for a while now... Since it won't be on the road for quite a while longer, I think I'm going to fix it first for practice. Starting tomarrow or Tuesday, the Mav will not be able to be "down" for repairs for more then a day. I hate running it like that, but I don't really have much of a choice for the next few days. Just have to keep a close eye on it. I appreciate it guys.
The rubber hose coming off the vent just goes up beside the frame and stops. It's there to keep water from getting into the axle. If you change it yourself you have to be carefull not to crush the crush washer anymore when going back on with the yoke. They are designed to crush a certain amount when setting up the pinion depth. I've changed one on my 71 F100 and it's not real hard. The worst part was getting the yoke off the first time. I had to use a puller on mine. On my friends truck the yoke slid right off after removing the nut. Remove the yoke, remove the seal. Clean everything up. Replace the sell, I put a little RTV around the outside of the seal. Replace the yoke and torque the nut to specifications. It is an easy job to do. I did'nt really torque mine back to spec because I figure it was torqued that high to begine with to crush that coller piece and set the depth. I just tried to get it back tight judging when it was back against the crush coller and tight. Did I confuse everybody? lol I confused myself. lol clint
