I have vibration I would like to figure out the cause. The vibes are coming thru the floor board, steering wheel and brake pedal. It occurs in neutral as well as in motion. It seems to lessen to a degree as the car warms to normal temp. It also seems to be worse at certain rpm's; have not been able to drive it enough this year to pinpoint rpm where it seems to increase. The issue is not to a point where I can't drive the car but, no it don't get better w/ time. I am wondering if motor mount/s cud be part or contribute to the vibes -- though I am not convinced this is the primary cause. Changed oil yesterday and felt this was best time to get pic of mount.. .
I had a similar problem , mine was just a loose bolt that holds the alternator bracket to the block , I tightened the bolt and the vibration was gone , I could not believe it was that simple .
Yea I had it rebuilt few months ago. I did not like the way it went back on the crank -- slide in w/o need for any mechanical aid. I do think the mounts are need of replacing, but wonder if they're bad enough to cause the hi-frequency vibes I am experiencing. 73curtis: I will check all the bolts on the front of the engine.
also keep in mind that an exhaust system should be completely isolated from the body as much as possible. from your description here and the other torque converter thread a while back.. I would be looking up near the front of the system to find any potential exhaust vibration/frequency transmission points. OEM mounts are much MUCH more effective than those cheapy metal/rubber straps found at the parts stores too.
Either the motor mounts are broken or they're not. There's no in-between. Of you have a broken mount, the engine will drastically rock to one side when reving it, which can cause the fan to hut the shroud (if you have a shroud).
That's what I thought bout the engine rocking when revving. This is not a problem, the engine has no rocking motion. I really don't think the mount is the cause of the vibes, "more of a buzzing" if you will. I will have to look farther for the culprit. I believe something in between the flex plate & torque converter. Don't know where it's coming from, but plan to have the trans gone thru soon since it has a slow fluid leak. Hopefully, not in the engine, it runs real good and wud not like to replace it --- unless last resort.
I'm tending to agree that it's a vibration from the exhaust. Had a buddy with headers on his 66 Fairlane and couldn't figure out where the buzzing vibration was coming from. Mound the head of a bolt in the firewall making intermittent contact with the header. I would check all exhaust clearances and maybe the top of your bellhousing is contacting the firewall? - Matt
You were right Greg! I recently replaced headers and exhaust and noticed the problem w/ vibration is gone. Replaced long tubes w/ Heddman shorty's vibration gone, but, have slight issue w/ pittman arm hitting exhaust pipe just below collector restricting tight turns to the left, not an issue w/ normal operation. I couldn't see any place the exhaust was hitting against frame b4 the change, but, it was making contact somewhere. Anyway, glad the vibe problem gone, could really feel the vibes when getting on the gas -- can live w/ restriction on left turns. Rebuilding the harmonic balancer was necessary, the elastic type material was in obvious need of attention.
Glad to hear it Everett. Could probably clearance that area of pitman interference with a BFH and some type of blunt object, bar or dulled/mod'd(rounded off) chisel. Just use the interference witness marks to locate the strike zone when the wheels are turned all the way in the opposite direction for larger access. Good luck with it!
Glad you cleared up the vibration problem. Funny, I didn't have a problem with the pitman arm, but may be because it is a '69.5 and the pitman arm is different, since mine has manual steering. Good job!
The pittman arm and model years may be the difference, I don't know -- my car has PS arm. You have long or short Hedmann's ? I got rid of leaking collectors on the old long tubes and now exhaust sound is annoying over about 2000 rpm esp., accelerating (drone sound). I did not have it w/ the long tubes. I have same mufflers, as they still look to be good. Next move, change mufflers and get X pipe. Had the car back to muffler shop and all welds seem ok. Get rid of one issue and create two. No hurry on mufflers, since not making any extended trips this fall; usually go NSRA , Kalamazoo, MI. and Muncie IN. area to James Dean/Ducktail Run. Hope to make one of the Maverick events next year in Illinois.
