Since the guy I use has been flaky I'm taking it on my self. I've already cut it with 1500, 2000 and 3000 using a dry sanding method. What do you guys like using to polish. I hear a lot about the perfect it system by 3m.
Through the years I've used most all the major stuff being marketed to the body shops and their supply chains but my long standing favorite from start to finish is still Meguiars. Favorites for those are the diminishing grit or sacrificial abrasive formula's such as... Diamond Cut 2.0 Ultra Cut Those formula's will work on plastic(headlights and such) and even metals as well.. although the softer non-ferrous metals are more easily worked with them. They are excellent products intended to reduce work times by hours.. not just minutes.. since they eliminate the need for as many steps/products to achieve a show car finish. Body shops love them for that very reason. Kinda like book time for mechanics.. they still charge you for the time they didn't actually need to spend and make more profit margin. The thing to keep in mind with heavier cut compounds like these is to stay away from the edges and peaks until you've worked the compound down to slightly finer grits on the flat panel sections. So, basically you load the pad and start away from the edges for a few passes(about 10-15 seconds of work time) and then make your way towards the edges and peaks once the compound has diminished. It breaks down very quickly and you'll soon get a feel for the timing after only a few passes. Though you can get damned close to a finished product with this alone, the only thing I'd recommend to use after these compounds is a final swirl polish and you're ready for a sealant of some sort. Tons of polymer sealants on the market that come close to the same shine but will last far longer than wax too. PS. ALWAYS use fresh foam pads and store them in a big gallon baggie afterwards to prevent contamination. And never mix compounds between pads either. Be sure the car is washed and degreased prior to final cuts and polish as well.
Thanks, I might tape my edges and then hit them up with a finer compound towards the end. I've burned through an edge before on a different car and I rather get kicked in the nuts than to experience that. I'll look at the diamond and ultra cut.
Check out AutoGeek.net and their YouTube Channel - You can also call them and they are very helpfull.
That works too but you are underestimating how quickly the compound breaks down. I certainly understand being cautious of your hard-earned paint job but to give perspective.. these compounds can also be used on plastic too, albiet with lighter initial pressures until you are able to lean on the pad harder. I do my cars headight housings on occasion and have done MANY with hazed and yellowed covers on friends and family's stuff too. Also used it more recently on my Comets taillight lenses as they came out very smooth. Trick is to cut at lower speeds with reduced pressure and then work your way to higher speeds with increased pressure application. Point is.. try the typically used technique previously mentioned above, which should always be used anyways(never use a loaded pad directly on edges/ridges) and work from the flats towards the edges and high-points as the compounds break down. Loading the pad in the centers and working towards the edges is cutting and buffing 101. What type of buffer do you have? You don't want an R/A or D/A setup for cutting.. you want an orbital and can then move to an R/A-D/A for final swirl/polish work if need be. I will also add that.. IF .. you get good at using the orbital with the products mentioned above?.. you will never use the other stuff laying on your shelves and the R/A-D/A machines may as well just be sold because they will just collect dust from that point on. My shelves full of dusty outdated products and less than efficient tools are a true testament to that fact. lol PS. Whenever I am trying a new product out.. I typically take extra effort to CLEANLY "sample it" before tossing the receipt in the pile. IOW, don't use the application tip on the bottle and go straight from the opening itself. This way if you don't like it?.. just return it and try another. I've done this stuff long enough and worked with enough products that I will bet that you will love this stuff for the time and effort it will save you in the long run.
