removing the zbar

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Hairy W Bush, Sep 7, 2015.

  1. Hairy W Bush

    Hairy W Bush Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2011
    Messages:
    479
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    78
    Location:
    Georgia
    Vehicle:
    1972 Maverick Grabber
    alright i'll just need the top part of your list then. it's everything from the end of the rod that comes out the firewall (zbar attach point) on down. i just need the clutch fork swivel btw but I know which one that is.
     
  2. dyent

    dyent Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Messages:
    1,181
    Likes Received:
    455
    Trophy Points:
    258
    Location:
    vancouver bc
    Vehicle:
    1973 Comet 2 dr., 302 w/AR aluminum heads, Toploader 4 spd, 9" Trac-Lok w/3.70
    Melvin's has 2 different versions, one with the threaded hole and one without.......

    D1DZ-7A528-E w/o threaded hole
    D1DZ-7A528-T threaded hole

    both are same price at $14.95
    Melvin's great people to deal with, good luck!
    David
     
  3. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Messages:
    8,074
    Likes Received:
    962
    Trophy Points:
    498
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    GA
    Vehicle:
    '74 Maverick 302 5-Speed.'60 Falcon V8. '63.5 Falcon HT
    I used the threaded idler swivel along with jam nuts
     
  4. tody

    tody Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2008
    Messages:
    1,835
    Likes Received:
    218
    Trophy Points:
    178
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    cologne, germany
    Vehicle:
    72 comet gt, 67 club wagon, 65 mustang
    so did i.

    while sorting out my clutch issues, though i found some message board postings adressing this point. they claimed to use the un-threaded swivel with two jam nuts one one side (towards the fork). reason stated was that the clutch rod would be able to move and swift a little and would be subject to failure otherwise.
    in the ford master parts catalog, the drawing is a little unprecise in this area, so i can't quite make it out...
     
    rthomas771 likes this.
  5. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Messages:
    8,074
    Likes Received:
    962
    Trophy Points:
    498
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    GA
    Vehicle:
    '74 Maverick 302 5-Speed.'60 Falcon V8. '63.5 Falcon HT
    I guess you can call it a little insurance policy because locking jam nuts do wear out the more you turn them. More threads more the merrier
     
  6. Hairy W Bush

    Hairy W Bush Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2011
    Messages:
    479
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    78
    Location:
    Georgia
    Vehicle:
    1972 Maverick Grabber
    rthomas you welded up the whole hole right and not just the half that was worn?
     
  7. tody

    tody Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2008
    Messages:
    1,835
    Likes Received:
    218
    Trophy Points:
    178
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    cologne, germany
    Vehicle:
    72 comet gt, 67 club wagon, 65 mustang
    weld it up completely, otherwise you wouldn't be able to drill the new hole precisely enough.
     
  8. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Messages:
    8,074
    Likes Received:
    962
    Trophy Points:
    498
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    GA
    Vehicle:
    '74 Maverick 302 5-Speed.'60 Falcon V8. '63.5 Falcon HT
    Tody is correct...I welded the whole hole. I used a cereal box to trace a template to know where to re-drill.
     
  9. Hairy W Bush

    Hairy W Bush Member

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2011
    Messages:
    479
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    78
    Location:
    Georgia
    Vehicle:
    1972 Maverick Grabber
    I'm going to wait till I get the bushing in so I know the size.
     

Share This Page