Looking for input. Was gonna make a 3 hour trip to get the 347 dyno tuned tomorrow....just curious if it makes more sense to take that money and buy a wideband air fuel gauge instead. My thoughts were years of fine tuning as weather changes and parts are swapped in and out vs a one time shot on the dyno. Any benefits either way that outweigh the other?
The wideband sensor will certainly help you get the A/F ratio optimized for any given set of conditions if you are running a carb however, you won't find out what your rear wheel HP is or what various ignition timing/advance curve changes might yield without the chassis dyno session. The A/F ratio is just one component of a good tune. I would want to leave it alone once the tune is optimized vs. changing jets all of the time chasing the weather. Now if you are drag racing on a regular basis, that's another story.
Get it tuned and buy the wideband... Why? If you have a carb or some other problem you'll have numbers to refer back to...
Makes sense. Ill get her tuned tomorrow and see what it makes. Be very unhappy with less than 350rwhp.
The DYNO is more Conclusive and you have " Measured Results" ..( richer , leaner ?? etc.) Timing for maximum power ..AF mixture/ .. A Wideband is utilized also in any GOOD Dyno Shop ! Seat of the pants tuning can be deceiving and inaccurate ! I've "dynoed" my last four engines for maximum performance and was satisfied each time with the results. Just My take on this . Wish you well Cometized (Chip)
When we dyno'd my car, we must have done 20-30 runs. Each time tweaking the mixture here and there or playing with the timing. I remember a small change in timing picked up 20 ft. lbs. I'm still tweaking with it now. I put an extra bung in the exhaust and run an AF meter to get live results. Idle has been my biggest issue. Good luck. It is worth the time and money. Micah
Well motor is too fresh to really spin it up so we shut her off at 5300 rpm. Only a few hubdred miles on the engine so still getting lots of blow by on hard accel. Setup made 310rwhp at 5300 rpm through the 2600 stall. Not what i wanted it to make but hoping for another 20hp when its fully broke in.....then time for nitrous
Not far from what I got, 326. I figure the trany costs about 40, the accessories 10-15 and the rear/tires another 10. In Reno, I lose about 40 to elevation. Micah
Details: http://mmb.maverick.to/resources/my-1971-maverick.221/ The dyno we used did not make adjustments for altitude. It just gave what it put out. Micah
Oh ok i see. But yeah are setups are very similar. Wish i had the balls to spin it to 6200 today but figured with it being so fresh and getting so much blow by it wasnt worth the risk.
What kind of rings did you put in? A few hundred miles that thing should be ready to roll unless you put chrome-faced rings in.
I didnt previous owner did. I was skeptical it still needed broken in but my long time friend and performance shop dyno guy is convinced it hasnt sealed yet and still needs broken in....... His feelings were they were running synthetic so i took it back and tomorrow i will put non synthetic in it and take it through some heat cycles over the next few weeks and see if it clears up then back to the dyno. If not guess i will re ring it.
You never run synthetic oil until the engine is broke in,the rings will never seat,I`ve seen it from experience.
