I am really glad that asked for advice! I have a column shifter, what would I need to allow it to work? Sorry guys I'm decently new to this so I am still trying to learn everything as I go.
I see that. It has the same lift specs as an E303 but less duration. It may have a smoother idle. I glanced at the flywheel and saw it was not included. I see the flexplate is.
You can buy a bracket from the Mustang supply vendors that bolts on with the bellhousing bolts, or it isn't that difficult to fab one...
I would go back to the paint shop and get a better explanation. Just pulling a car in an out of a shop does not cause the motor to drop a valve. They did something and should be held accountable.
Now one thing that I am wondering is would the AC and P/S brackets still be able to mount into the engine?
I already tried...they vehemently deny ever doing anything that would cause damage to the car. I have no way to prove that they did anything wrong...
I would call BS on that statement. It drove in and was fine every other visit. They hot roded your car and dropped the valve.
it proves itself you drove it in just fine and even started it a few times while you had visited without problems and then one day you come back and your motor is trashed? NO! why were they driving it period? they shouldve been pushing it. if they drove it last theyre responsible for damages check the under side of your quarter panel see if theres rubber shreds there. if so there you so they got to hot rodding your car and over revved it and destroyed your motor. they broke it theyre the ones who have to pay for it. if its a fresh paint job there should be no signs of anything ever being there valves dont just give out at idle speeds or even speeds enough to move the car from place to place in the shop. any machine shop will tell you the same thing. ask the most known and biggest machine shop locally to write you a statement to that effect and take it to the body shop owner. tell him either quietly pay for it and Ill move on OR Ill drag your shops name THROUGH THE DIRT on every social media outlet out there AND take you to court and sue you for twice what the motor cost to build. make sure you already have the documents needed to file a claim in court in your hand along with the statement and an estimate to build you a new engine IF you spend the time to REALLY drag his shop into the dirt even his previously happy customers will think twice about there paint job that theyve been happy with previously. nowadays social media can just about put you out of business bloggers could be a big help in this dept some of them will spread anything like wild fire
Brackets are different from '69 to '70, another reason to use a water pump with driver side inlet(plus you'll have to get a different radiator or rig a lower hose if you don't)... I'll agree the shop probably over revved the engine but one thing to think about, usually when a valve lets go at high RPM, it's in the cylinder and motor locks up almost instantly... By your statement it apparently was still running just not as it should...
I do not think we can rely on the picture in the advertisement to determine exactly what may be at issue with this engine installation. The picture shows an engine with aluminum cylinder heads and intake manifold and possibly a high-end distributor. The description says OE cast iron heads(not aluminum aftermarket), intake manifold (not an aluminum high rise), distributor (not MSD or Mallory for example), no spark plugs, wires, fuel pump, or carburetor. There is also a disclaimer with the photo: Image is a representation of this item. Actual item may vary. I believe the engine is still a good buy however, I would write down any questions you have i.e. the water pump issue as suggested by Krazy Comet and contact Summit Racing directly for answers. I personally question the 300hp figure but that is OK. I also believe your body shop (BS) is responsible for your engine's damage. Before you pursue any social media damage and make yourself a permanent uncooperative service establishment (the BS), I would follow these steps: Did someone go with you when you first delivered the car and can testify to its running condition? If so, that is to your benefit. Do you have a witness to the conversation you had with BS management concerning the damaged vehicle after the repair? That is also to your benefit. The BS is responsible for your car when it is in their care, period! That would be the equivalent of having your car's sheet metal damaged due to some type of accident and them claiming it wasn't their employees and therefore, were not responsible. Maybe their employees weren't responsible, perhaps another customer backed into your vehicle and they didn't notice it, that is irrelevant, they are still responsible! That is why they carry insurance. This type of claim is not taken well by insurance company's. A BS with a claim for an engine replacement? A BS does not need to test drive a sheet metal and paint repair to determine work quality. That can mean only one thing, abuse by an employee! That leads to an insurance rate increase as the BS does not have in place well defined work practices. Your BS has the option of placing a claim against their shop insurance or themselves absorbing the cost of repair. Obviously, neither remedy is being utilized by the BS on your behalf. They choose to have you pay for their poor practices. They are not really good guys!!! You brought your car to their shop in good running condition and left after the BS repair with a damaged engine. I do not believe you would have any problem winning your case in small claims court. Are they members of the BBB? That is also an avenue short of court. Contact the BBB and file a complaint. The supporting paperwork you need are detailed photos of the engine damage, two or more estimates for repair/replacement and of course your BS's paid repair order. Take your detailed photos to a few repair shops and get written estimates. Do not discuss the BS issue with the repair shop personnel. In a good faith effort, contact your BS and show them the photos, estimates and make them aware of any witness's and your intentions to pursue the matter further so they have the opportunity to reconsider. Hopefully they would reconsider and make you an offer to settle. Be open minded. If not, you are off to the BBB and/or small claims court. Base your claim amount on either your written estimates or the cost of your replacing the engine, whichever is the lesser. In addition, just because you take the BS to small claims court or contact the BBB does not preclude you from proceeding with your engine replacement. Make sure you keep your receipts and damaged parts until the issue has been resolved. I base this opinion on having spent several years representing my employer in court, small claims court and arbitration. Good luck with your car!!!
I'm going to be removing the engine and transmission today, anybody have any advice or tips while doing this?
Take lots of Photos of everything before its disconnected .. You'll have something to refer to if you need it later on! Cometized (Chip)
William623, You have just been given some professional advice from someone speaking from experience. I would take it if I were you.