thank you sir I will do a compression check before I take clutch out. and see if I can fix that fuel leak. the motor also will not rev higher than 5200. you could floor it for a week it will not go any higher. that could probably damage the motor though my intention is to have a low rpm torque street motor. I know it is only a 302 but rather than radical cam high rpm motor I want low end. I thought the edlebrock rpm was more for high rpm power and the performer was better on the street?
Hopefully you do not have any major internal engine issues and the vast majority of your problems are ignition related. I would recommend not taxing the engine until you get the miss and fuel leak corrected. It has been my experience the RPM is equal to the Performer at low engine speed and there is no comparison at higher engine speed. The RPM walks away from the Performer. It is my opinion the Performer is for owners with hood clearance issues and want less weight than the stock manifold. My Weiand Stealth is a gem on the street. The Weiand Stealth is the competitor to the Edelbrock RPM. As I stated before, I have had experience with all three intakes.
X 2 on this. There's virtually no difference at the bottom end between the two intakes. Going with the RPM will allow you to do further upgrades down the road and give your motor room to breathe on top. Another good high rise dual plane is the old "Cobra" intake, also made in several other incarnations as the C9OX, the newer Ford A321 and Edelbrock's older F4B. The runner layout is a little different, but they work just as well.
I also have an old Original Cobra intake. It is almost identical to the Stealth and RPM. Great old unit!!!!! 71grabber 302 if you are interested in saving some money and end up with a better performing combination than the Edelbrock combo this is what I suggest: Weiend Steath $186.95 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-8020 Summit 600cfm carburetor $260.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs Summit Drop Bottom Air Cleaner $21.96 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g30012b/overview/ Total $469.88 plus intake gaskets
Watched and listened to your video again. If I'm not mistaken the squeal tends to have the same rhythm as the engine with it's miss. It goes right along with the engine RPM. Do you have something bent underneath that is rubbing the flywheel?
right on I'll take any advice I can get first project car! I also was looking In the summit catalog and summit makes a cam kit for only $104! 1200-4800 rpm. .449" intake/ .473" exhaust lift. should get some good power increase with that son of a gun I will work on er tomorrow see if there is something down there. i'll get a better video of the problem. the car used to sound completely different, when I first started running it as evidenced here
First-things-first, get that engine running well again. When you pull the plugs be sure to keep them in order as more than likely they will tell you which cylinder is giving you the most concern. As far as the cam, I assume you are describing the hydraulic flat tappet cam at the following link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3600/overview/make/ford I personally prefer this cam, especially with a standard transmission: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3601/overview/ Slightly more duration and more intake valve lift with the second camshaft. I'm of the opinion once you install the 3600 cam you will say "Why did I bother, there is minimal difference from my stock cam. You can't always go by the description of performance on the Summit website, you have to know the cam specifications. Personally I think the cam's performance description at the bottom is a misprint, doesn't make sense to promote your product by saying it is a low performer. Regardless of which camshaft you select, don't forget to replace the timing chain.
the 3601 has more lope at idle as well it looks like which is what I want. bring my powerband up to 5500 too
just be aware that simply throwing more cam timing.. like most typically do.. at these LITTLE and relatively poor flowing factory engines will always result in narrower power bands because the little you gain up top quickly becomes a matter of highly diminishing returns from being so air-choked in too many area's.. and very quickly offset by even greater losses at the bottom. ie; usually far better to match little heads.. with little cam.. with little exhaust.. etc.. etc. Unless you're at the point where you want to start rebuilding everything at once.. usually much better to gain power UNDER peak torque.. rather than sacrificing too much of it in the process of trying to gain too much more power PAST peak torque. Out of those two choices I would choose the 3600 cam simply because of that. Beyond that, considerably better compression is always needed to help avoid such major losses in bottom end when camming it up too much all in one shot. It's all about the parts combo complementing each other to work together better. With complementary parts, that little motor will rev much higher with the 230 degree(@.050 timing) cam.. but your gears will make it a turd off the line. Welcome to the snowball effect of hotrodding.. And another thing I'd like to mention here... and I don't mean to sound like I'm trying to smack your hand away from the cookie jar like some "overly conservative old man"(because I'm actually only one of those things.. lol). So here it is. While all of use have been reckless at times.. or maybe even didn't give a rats tailend about a machines longevity.. beating the snot out of old worn out motors in bad states of tune is nearly the worst thing you could do to them. In other words.. if you treat it like a demo-derby car.. it'll run like a derby car.. and last about as long as one.
good info grobert. I see what your saying a I need to take it easy on er until I get it running right. did a compression check on the ol beast. here were the results: cylinder 1: 140 pounds 2: 120 3: 115 4: 140 5: 130 6: 128 7: 125 8: 110 throttle was at about 85 percent. could not manage to get it blocked to fully open. motor also was not normal operating temp, but was not cold. the upper radiator hose was warm but not hot. the spark plugs had a lot of oil on them. somewhat challenging to get them out haha not too much room. from left to right cylinders 4,3,2,1 from left to right cylinders 5, 6, 7, 8 I drove it out on the road a little bit and there was a lot of the motor trying to die. once you got above 2000 in first and got on it , it didn't try to die, but it revved up slowly, there was a little power but not much. sounded mean! shifted to third at about 35 mph and it couldn't do it. right in that dead spot. it managed to stay running though. got a video here showing the mechanical problems. what is the sound at 31-32 seconds when I rev it? the belt is tight and only moves about 1/2" when you push down on it. I think the sound is something within the bell housing for sure. I located the carburetor leak as well.
lol.. I can see you're hooked here. The compression is beyond decent enough to get down the highway. Adjust the timing, check for bad plug wires(especially the metal wire terminals pulling out deep down inside the boot and not capturing over the plug ends during reassembly).. if it's got points then you may need to replace those too while you're at it. And for god's sake man.. fix the carb already so you don't start this thing.. yourself.. or even the camera man on fire. Solid fuel puddles sitting so close to mis-adjusted carbs, bad timing, potential arcing plug wires, and just generally to close in proximity to something making all sorts of coughing, popping, and sputtering sounds is just asking for serious trouble. Especially when your buddies who smoke stand around watching you try to get this thing doing better burnouts.
got the flywheel out. ordered clutch and carb rebuild kit, it'll be running like a champ here pretty soon! those flywheel bolts were on there TIGHT "watching you trying to get this thing doing better burnouts." hahah I gotta get at least one for every time I fire it up!
wrong pressure plate. the clutch kit from rockauto does not work, do not get it! the bolt holes on the pressure plate were bigger than the flywheel itself! hey third time huh? there is a small hole on the bottom of my transmission. it was not leaking oil out of there before, but after removing it, it is. will this start leaking again after installing transmission?
