stock would be okay it it was ohhhhhh i dunnooooo maybe a 5.0 Coyote and as long as its not a chevy 350 then I'm excited to see it
My guess would be a built 408 as he eluded to previously. I cnt wait to do the 408 kit with my dads 351w this spring.
No, I'll just tell it, a 347 stroker as the kid doesn't even need that to start but it will have the MSD 6 AL-2 so I can limit him to 2500 rpm if need be, but it is going to have all the best parts, because I don't want to build another engine
Think he meant if it was a stock coyote 5.0 it would be fine. But a stock 5.0 coyote will take 7k rpm all day.
We well from what I understand it has to do with the stroke length, a 3" stroke theoretically is good to 8500, now this is of course with all the right valve train gear, etc. the longer the stroke the more limited the rpm, a 302 can turn more than a 347 based on piston speed but I'm sure you all know more about this than I, I do know that the new motor will be balanced to within 1/2 gram using the lightest pistons and rods avaiable without giving up strength, we are going with 11:1 comp or max comp that will run pump gas, the stall will be probably 3000-3500
I'm right at 10:1 in my Maverick running 89 octane...The 289 in my Falcon is close to 11.5:1 running on 91 octane, shifting gears at 7,000 rpm. My buddy's Boss 302 is 14 to 1 but it takes 110 octane and shifts at 9,000 rpm
Random thoughts based on the last few replies. Engine rpm is not the absolute killer all in itself.. but HP combined along with the rpm's. The numbers you throw around in the above are simply theoretical numbers based on metallurgical restrictions, friction coefficients, and g-forces. Just changing piston/pin/ring pack weights alone can affect a rods ultimate capabilities. In other words.. a 300 horse motor can live MUUUCCHHHH longer at 8,000 rpm than a 500 horse motor can at 7,000 rpm all else being equal. Also, the type of driving.. can and does greatly affect rod lifespan(especially stock parts). Fwiw.. there are proper ways to do burnouts.. and not so proper techniques.. with some of them killing rods/bearings as the engine loads too hard/abruptly when the wheels stop spinning and finally hook up under high-rpm power production. Which is why savvy racers heat, set the hook, and then back out of throttle right away to avoid totally unnecessary wear and tear. Basically.. no crew chief or lead mechanic likes to see John Force style burnouts because they come at a price. Octane requirements heavily revolve around camshaft timing because it controls cylinder pressures(static and dynamic) at various rpm's. And with computer controls adding huge margins compared to non-ECM engines.. you cannot/should not even remotely compare the two. 12/1 CR is entirely doable on pump gas if the tune remains conservative and always kept tip-top. Even 13/1 is doable on pump gas with computers in lighter vehicles with gears that avoid heavy lower-rpm range loading. A 500 horse car that takes 6 seconds to reach redline in second gear is harder on parts than the same 500 horse motor that only takes 4 seconds. Same power level.. but one takes more abuse because it gets loaded harder and longer. Aftermarket rods would have kept that engine together with ease. No aftermarket block required. Lighter piston/pin/ring package may have even done the same with those stock rods for the reasons mentioned above.
In my area we get up to 93 pump gas at every pump. I ran 93 and never had an issue. Mixed in 110 or took out timing when I was gonna spray it.
Also to the point of groberts my 358 SBC was built to run on pump gas and dyno tuned before it ever hit anything over 3k rpm. A lot goes into what the motor can or can not run on and what rpm it will hold up to. I had 6-7k in my small block and was told by the builder to never spin it past 6500 rpm
And for what it's worth we are spending the coin on aftermarket block yeah your right on all accounts as far as I'm concernesf
