wires going to sensor in air filter

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by russellgaspard, Jun 12, 2014.

  1. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    While doing work on my car i noticed a pair of wires going to a sensor on the bottom part of the air filter. The wires are old and one managed to come off. could anyone tell me what sensor this was so i can find a replacement?
     
  2. BKelley

    BKelley Comet Enthusiast

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    what year?... engine?
     
  3. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    its a 1973 straight 6
     
  4. BKelley

    BKelley Comet Enthusiast

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  5. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    hmm no i dont think thats it. Its on the bottom of the air filter. Its a round sensor
     
  6. BKelley

    BKelley Comet Enthusiast

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    does it have vacuum hoses attached to it?
     
  7. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    no just the two wires.
     
  8. BKelley

    BKelley Comet Enthusiast

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    see if you can find it in the attached photo
     

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  9. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    it looks like the ambient switch. Are those expensive or hard to find?
     
  10. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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  11. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    Are you living in an area that does emissions testing? ... and on a vehicle this age?

    The reason why I ask is that in the early 70s, they did a lot of hokey things to crutch the motors into lowered emissions. It typically resulted in worse gas mileage and performance. (how in the world do you get less emissions by pouring more gas in a motor?... somehow Detroit figured it out, but not well.)

    That switch likely retarded the timing at certain temperatures. If not subject to testing and you aren't doing a 100% restoration, etc., you might consider configuring the motor back to a basic late 60s set-up, bypassing a lot of the goofy ignition controls that they saddled the car with. Your car doesn't have a catalytic converter, so I feel that you have a bit to gain in driveability. You wouldn't hurt anything.

    As a sidenote ... did you notice the car driving any worse with this not functioning?
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
  12. russellgaspard

    russellgaspard Member

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    Awesome :) where can I find a guide on doing that? I would much rather that than spending money on replacing it.
     
  13. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Good luck, there won't be any guides as it's basically illegal t tamper with emissions controls... Of course on a 40 year old vehicle that parts are unavailable, I don't think they'll toss you in the pokey for removing it... Probably hasn't functioned in the last 20 years anyway...

    Cut the remaining wire, disconnect the plug and motor on...
     
  14. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    I am digging this up from memory from a long time ago. If your engine is like one that I "fixed" back then, it has two vacuum lines going to the distributor. If this is the case, run a vacuum line from the intake manifold to the port that points furthest away from the body of the distributor (the other would be closer to the mainshaft and likely 90 degrees to it). Leave the port that is closer open ... no line ... no cap, leave it open to atmosphere. Anything else that was hooked up to that distributor becomes excess weight and pointless ....

    Something else that you can do that will wake the motor up for next to nothing is change a spring for the advance weights inside the distributor. You will have to take the plate with the points out to do this. You will see a heavy spring and a medium weight spring. Get another medium spring (think junkyard) and replace the heavy one. This will help a surprising amount. Do NOT get "racing" springs ... they are too light and will cause the advance to come in too fast.

    One more thing ... if it still has points, get a Pertronix electronic ignition conversion. One of the best things I did to my 351 motor that has some mods. Made it a lot easier to live with.
     

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