Sticky Ignition Switch

On my '72, column shift auto when the ignition key is turned to "start" it doesn't spring back. Functions OK when I pull it back. Anyone know what causes that? Do I need a new switch?

 

the eletronic switch is where the springs are that do what you want. you can take it out and clean and grease it or just replace it sence its old and youve got it appart.

 

OK, thanks. I'll have a look at it. See they're available at NAPA ($75) and Advance ($45).

 

i got mine at kragen. i suspect all the auto parts stores will have them

 

I just took mine apart and cleaned this past winter. The problem was actually in the steering column hub. The 40 year old grease was hard as a rock. The switch wasn't able to go into ACC position for years.

 

All good info. Thanks.

 

My switch will not turn off the engine if I go from run position to ACC w/o stopping it in the off position. Otherwise it works fine. Think I might need a new switch?

 

thats a sign that the igniton system is wired to the wrong circuit. do you have an aftermarket igniton or stock?

 

Like you can turn the key back and take it off but the car is still starting/running? Im thinking its the solinoid. has this happen to me about a year ago.

if the key is stuck, do what everyone else says about greasing it. Again, had that same problem about a year ago.

 

My car is a 73 and the guy I bought it from converted it to DuraSpark w/ the Blue connector/plug to the the ign. box. It looks like they used the proper conversion harness. If ur not really familiar w/ these cars it all looks like it came from the factory. I tested all the fuse junctions for pwr and they all seem to have pwr where they are suppose to w/ ign on/off. Also chk the two fuse junctions that have constant pwr - ckd OK.
So what do u think? If ur correct on the possibility of being wired to wrong circuit - Is there a possible problem leaving it the way it is?

 

the only problem is if you have the car off and the key to acc. to listen to the stereo the coil can be damaged by overheating it. the coild needs to be cycled on and off or it will over heat. that is why there is a acc option in the ignition switch. i have not done any duraspark conversions so dont know wich wire specificly is the switch on wire but thats the wire that you need to move to the igniton wire from the ignition switch. it should only be on when the key is in the run and crank positions

 

Seems like the ignition is being powered from the accessory post of the switch rather than the ignition post. When the key is turned to the start position, the acc post goes dead but the starter solenoid provides 12V to the ignition with key in that position. When the key is moved back to the run position, I'm guessing the ignition is being fed from the acc post. If you move past the off and lock positions quicky to the acc position, the ignition is powered again and the engine keeps running.

Could be that whoever installed the Duraspark tapped into a wire near the connector on the steering coumn. I just wired up my HEI distributor this week and that's where I tapped in to avoid the restance wire. Correct wire on my '72 was red/light green IIRC.

 

So what ur saying is I shud not have power to the coil w/ the switch in the ACC position?

 

Does the resistance wire go to the + side of the coil? I tested it for voltage one day and only got abt 6.5 volts - engine off. I will have to figure out how to get to the ign switch wiring soon and ck this out. I have the colored wiring diagram but don't have it handy now. Thanks for ur input.

 

yes that is what im saying.