i have already been there and printed off what they have thats where i got 90% of my info on the wiring. when i got my harness, i got everything that i thought i would need and even some stuff that i just wanted to. the SPOUT connect and plug is there of course as i knew i would need it. my '94 GT tought me that, not to mention Ford and Dodge is about all i know, being certified for Chrysler for 3 yrs tought me alot. as for the 12v+ coil wire, i did not know that, nor did i know to run the start wire from the distributor to the silenoid. i have eliminated everything from the emissions/EGR system and wont be running any of it. ill leave the EGR valve bolted onto the intake untill i get an eliminator for it. why did u solder wires in the harness for the EGR system? from what i have read, itll just trip a couple of codes by not hooking them up but wont trigger the 'check engine' light.
It will trigger the check engine light if something is not there to fool the computer in thinking the EGR is active or there. If you was to unplug the egr plug, the light comes on,, the trick with the resistors keep that from happening, makes the computer think its there in closed position. Yeah the start wire gets its power from a momentary power source at the solinoid when the key is in start position, then once the engine fires up and the key is in run, the run circuit takes over. Really, the IGN circuit is all by itself, KINDA,,,,,,, still the traditional wiring setup,, just the computer controls the coil thru the negative side. SD computers also have a multi spark setup like a MSD does,,, so its built in! Volt reference and signal return is two wires going to the EGR,,,, one other I cant remember off the top of my head,,, but the computer sends the volt reference to the egr, and the signal return tells the computer the part is active, or exists. I left mine in the harness for I dont know why,,,, LOL! But the wires are there at the egr incase I ever burn up the resistors, I can just plug it back in and its back to normal. As long as the vacuum line is disconnected from the egr, it wont move at all. I plugged the port in the lower intake so nothing goes thru,,, I havent got a block off for it yet, so I left it there. Chad
could you send me a diagram of where the resistors need to go and what size to get? i would great appreciated it. ya know, maybe you should do a 'how-to' article on this wiring. i believe alot of us would greatly benefit from it is there anything else that you can think of that might come in handy for me here in the near future...?
mean mav Do an archive search and you will find additional info. Just so you know, the merc system uses smaller intake runners and TBs than the SD mustangs. Also, they use the 302 firing order not the 302HO/351 firing order!! As Bluegrass indicated the Mark and Mustang systems are better as they truly are higher performance. I have some mustang uppers and lowers as well as some SD ECMs that may be of use. Finally, the EFI cars use roller cams that are substantially different in design than flat tappets. Not sure about the edelbrock performer. You can buy good external fuel pumps but you will need to route an additional return line. Good luck!
actually the intakes are the same according to Ford, but smaller TB and 14lb injectors vs. the mustang's 19lb injectors. another reason for me using the merc setup is the firing order, which all 302's have. i am going to use this system for the time being for it's simplicity and availability (and price). i am aware of the roller cam blocks that are in these cars and intend on building a roller motor in the future. i am also aware of the fuel pump issue and plan to use an external unit from an '88 F250 5.0 as i stated earlier to ChadS. and also plan to use the factory gas tank vent as a means of return line for the system. is there anything else that you can point out that you think i should know? all info is greatly appreciated
What about the belt and accesory drives on the motor?? Surpentine, or V belt? Newer 5.0's have a reverse rotation water pump. If your maverick had power steering, you can keep the entire stock belt drives, and accesories and still have the surpentine belt. I had a t-bird 5.0, sport coupe 88 model, thats what my engine is out of. It has AC PS, smog pump etc etc etc, had plenty of room in between the fenders, I had to remove most of my stuff cause my 69.5 does not have power steering, so I eliminated the AC compressor, smog pump, the PS pump, eliminated the entire alumn bracket on the drivers side of the motor. On the passenger side, remained the alt and tension spring in stock form. back on the drivers side, I took a second alternator, with a long bolt, and a spacer, bolted the bottom of the alt to the head, spaced out,, the stock AC bracket, bolted in the stock location on the water pump, I trimmed with with a grinder so it fit around the alt,, made a short bracket to go from the top alt mount to the ac bracket, tighented it down. I used a belt from a 91 Chevy Lumina with a 3.1L V6 with AC, and it fit like a glove. That works when your Maverick does not have Power Steering, and you want to keep the surpentine belt, and have a secondary charging system incase your primary alternator goes out. The alt I used was an older Ford,, off a 83 or something like that 5.0. I took a chevy alt pulley from the 91 GM V6 alt, same number of grooves on the pulley, swaped in right on the ford alt. Top radiator hose needs to be customized,,, maybe take a new maverick hose, and the hose from your 5.0, and put a metal ring inbetween them to put 2 hoses into 1. ChadS
i had planned on a Serp. setup in the near future once the EFI is up and going. i can get everything from the donor car pretty cheap, and prolly will once everything is going. i have alot of upgrade plans once the fuel injection is working properly. my '71 doesnt have any accessories except for the Alt so it'll be a pretty simple setup
Underneath the car, zip tied it up, drilled a small hole in the trunk, so it comes up to he filler spout. it runs down the driver side inner frame rail.
Yep, I made a steel bung, and put a 5/16 hose barb threaded into the bung right in to the lower section of the filler neck. Chad
