Well the jury has returned on the lower end, it's tight, journals look great, see for yourselves, now is anybody interested in a fairly fresh short block @0.060, you see I was wondering around in the shop today (I'm a sales rep factory specialist for the new Stingray) so I'm usually up front but love hanging out talking tech with the techs. Joe has a reman SBF on the stand finishing it off to go back into a 95 Ford F150, I'm looking at the factory roller gear and getting the idea of what has to be done to my block to put the spider and dog bones in it when I ask him what happened? He pointed to the motor on the floor and said "lack of proper mait." I ask did it blow, he said no, guy actually drove it in, was still running just poorly, I'm on my knees eyeing the long block that came out of the truck with full roller gear...WHOA! hold it Joe, what's going to happen with that motor, he said it has to go in for core charge........well you can figure the rest I now have a roller motor that needs a rebuild.....I'm thinking it's a sign I'm suppose to build a modern roller
They stopped building these about 15 years ago. LOL But, yeah, I'll never fool around with a flat tappet cam again. Besides the roller cam motor in my car I have two more in the shed.
Lol Boy now I'm feeling old, lol. Just a thought however I'm beginning to think that the fellow I bought this car from possibly didn't do a proper cam break in with proper break in oil/additive and here's why: How long does a motor need to run to start removing the cross hatch marking on the cylinder walls? these look fresh off the hone! also the rings are as sharp and if I cleaned them and showed them to an average tech I'm sure they would think they are looking at brand new rings! Also the trans he said was a new/rebuilt unit, well yeah so much so that the front seal and that piece that fits right there look straight out of the box, yeah the outside of motor is dirty but a little spilling oil or running while trying to adjust rockers can put enough oil in the engine bay that a month on the road it will look like 100k miles. Look closely at the exposed journal where I pulled the piston, mirror finish, the bearings in the piston rod don't even look like they have fully mated yet...I don't know and it's irrelevant at this point but it would explain a freshly rebuilt motor with alot of money spent and then it just sits (because he got tired of it). Anyway I'm still comfortable with the $2k I paid as the edelbrock heads, intake, rebuilt trans, and numerous other performance items like the B & M shifter, rockers, etc. etc., then a fairly decent bodied car that myself/son are enjoying, it just didn't turn out as good of a deal as first thought, oh well such as the joys of buying a used car. This would explain the cam is my point, could be wrong.
The two 5.0's I have in the shed, one had 120K miles and the other 80k miles. Both still show some of the cross hatch in the cylinders and have only worn .001" in diameter. If they're moly coated rings they seat almost as soon as the key is turned on.
Yeah, those moly rings are great. Got a '92 5.0 HO out of a T-bird with about 150k miles and everything looked awesome. Could've just gotten away with a bottle-brush hone and re-ring, but, went .020 over on it just to be safe. Clearances were spot on for all the bearings. Congrats on the find, Eric
