I am in the process of putting disk brakes on my 73 Maverick that I pulled from a Granda I remembered to pull the proprtioning value as has been mentioned. The problem is the new value has one more conection then my old one. I did not label the valve when I took it off. Does anyone have a diagram to show which slot goes to which area. thanks
I have a diagram of '72 disc brake models....when I figue out how to post it,"I will" or tell me your email and I,ll send it to you.
Here is a picture I have attached a picture. I know two lines go to the master cylinder...I imagine one for the back and the other two go to the back.
There were two mfgers of these valves, Wager and Kelsey-Hayes. There should be a total of 6 ports. The 2 close and oppsites each other on one end are to the front calipers. The next is the front feed from the rear port of the master cylinder. The center is the brake switch. Next is the rear feed from the front port of the master cylinder. One off the end is the rear feed. Reference Chiltons book 3669 page 343 center figures for disc front, drum rears up to 79. Using these parts doesnot gaurrentee the front to rear bias will be correct. The car weights and general design is different. between Granada and Maverick. You will also have different size flare nuts to contend with. The Disc master cylinder has a smaller piston and different sized outlet nuts and threads. This was done so a drum master could not be installed by mistake.
Hey mission maverick did you get the photos...... your photo is of a pressure differential valve for a Pinto(according to the ford manual).....
Got the pictures..... thanks! When I pulled the spindles I pulled the valve at the same time from a 76 Granda.....the mfg is wagner. But from reading some of the old post it seems like you could just use the valve in that is in the car.
on a similar thing, once the conversion is done using the aftermarket adjustable valve. how did you guys judge when the front and rear were balanced correctly? mine locks a little harder in the rear still when slammed on, dont think i have it quite right.
grabber, These are the things I try to bring out for the attempts to re-arrange the brake systems with various parts from other sources. Some just think it's fine to bolt these things togather and all will be good, it's just not the way it always works out. If you have a condition that allows the rear to have higher braking than the front assuming it is not some fault condition, then you need to reduce the pressure to the rear to allievate the condition. Consider this; if the front braking is improved beyond the original, then the weight transfer becomes ever greater and lets the rear brakes loose even sooner. However if the condition is the oppisite where there is not enough then no proportion valve will ever solve that problem. To test and set up the adjustable valve do some mild panic stops on smoothe pavement and adjust bias pressure until you can't 'hear' the rear tires break loose, then do the same on a dirt surface just moving a little and look for tracks in the dirt and adjust a little more bias to be sure your dialed in very close. From a point of engineering, the final design has to take into account the total swept area of the pads, the pad temperature ramp up, the weight of the car, the weight transfer to the front, the tire coefficient of friction. Then throw in the all the different road surfaces and you should be able to see that just bolting parts on without any consideration is just plain foolish. Further, anytime a car has it's pads/shoes changed to different units from the OEM the braking design has already been altered from factory. Changing tires by make and specific tire sizes etc all has an effect on brake performance. There are just to many associated elements, to take too lightly, when working on brake changes not to attempt to do it close to correct. One tire example: You all know the original tire sizes on these cars. Going to wide sticker tires or just plain more bite while fine for go power it has just the oppisite effect for braking in some ways, not all ways. The rear swept brake area is now not enough. This can mean the prop. valve is now not correct. And so it goes. I might remind that in an accident that could involve brake performance in any form, if it was found that the brake system was modified no matter if it was or was not the cause a lawyer and insurence companies can try to hang there hat on it as a case to find probable cause and the consequence that can result. We all take those kinds of chances with modified cars.
sounds good to me, i guess my fronts might still be too tight causing the weight to leave the back too much when romped. thought it was the opposite. ill have to adjust some more when i get it back and running again. Thanks for the info
