Is it a roller?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Jamie Miles, Aug 1, 2005.

  1. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    We were talking about engines the other night and my dad has a full dissassembled 302 in a box in the garage. The block has been freshly bored .030 over, the heads have been ported and there are all new bearings and stuff in the box. The engine had 30,000 miles when dissassembled and all the work was done by Lamar Walden, the same guy that built the engine in my dad's old Comet

    Question is, is this a roller motor? It supposedly came out of a '85 Mustang, but by the casting numbers it looks to me like it's from 1979

    All the numbers on the block are:

    on the bottom passenger side:

    D9OE-6O15-E3A
    9C16

    near the back:

    79
    33

    in the lifter valley:

    35

    So is there any way to tell by those numbers if its a roller? My dad wants 100 bucks for this thing, Other then a little surface rust here and there from sitting around for 10+ years in our garage, it's basically all ready to bolt back together and go. It has a brand new crank and everything. The pistons are used, but look almost new other then a little carbon. The rods and everything have been reconditioned.

    Even if it's not a roller motor, it's still worth 100 bucks, right? This will be a daily driver and will have a T-5 Transmission behind it.
     
  2. goose302

    goose302 Member

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    the easy way to tell is look at the lifter vally in the center it will have two threaded hole for the lifter alining hold down
     
  3. Tylar Miles

    Tylar Miles Try try try let it ride..

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    Alright.. this is looking down at the top of the block:
     

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  4. Max Power

    Max Power Vintage Ford Mafia

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    Not a roller. You are gonna wanna hone that thing and get the rust off the deck.

    It's worth $100.
     
  5. mavman

    mavman Member

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    They're right. Non-roller, but for 99% of us street car guys, it doesn't make much difference. If you MUST have a roller (or just want one LOL) it's easy to drill and tap the 2 spider hold-down holes. Get the spider, lifters, and lifter dog bones from a junkyard. The only other thing you have to worry with is the camshaft will have to be ground on a small base circle...no worry though, most roller cams cost about the same these days (around $250) whether it's a standard base circle or reduced base circle. The non-roller blocks have shorter lifter bores than their rollerized cousins so you have to use a reduced base circle camshaft that will position the lifters further down in their bores.

    It's an easy swap. Worth it? Maybe.
     
  6. Tylar Miles

    Tylar Miles Try try try let it ride..

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    I hate the way the pic came out, sitting here looking at it it's dull gray and gray cylinders with no rust.

    I'm gonna try trading him my secondary $150 value computer which is over 2X faster than his for it... If so no out of pocket costs :162:
     
  7. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    Man, that picture makes the block look horrible! It's not THAT rusty in real life. The cylinders have no rust what so ever, just a lot of goop that looks and smells like really old grease.
     
  8. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

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    If it has been sitting for that long, I really suggest you take it apart and replace the seals, oil things up, etc.
     
  9. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    There are no seals, it's a bare block. The rest of the bottom end is laying in a several boxes inside a bigger box. All seals and everything of that nature would get replaced when I build it.

    I appreciate it guys.
     
  10. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

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    heh, I didn't even look at the picture, tally ho then!
     
  11. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    cameras tend to not do justice....but they also pick up what we cant see .... still wouldnt hurt to hone it....heck...i'd even have it hot tanked and all that anyways..then get it honed....
     
  12. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    The block has already had all that stuff done. We don't have the money to have it all done again. I'll clean up what rust I can see with the naked eye and build it, then just change the oil a few times within the first 1,000 miles.

    This will be my first car engine build, can't wait to get started. I'm sure I'll be asking plenty of questions like torque specifications along the way. :)
     
  13. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Jamie, since this is your first engine build, I'd recommend having it hot-tanked also. I think $25 is the going rate.

    Even though you guys already did that a while back, it doesn't look like a good coat of corrosion protective was put on it. Besides, you don't really know what all is down inside the holes of the block.

    Not trying to pile on - just :2cents:

    Best of luck with the build and keep us updated on your progress! (y)
     
  14. okibono

    okibono Member

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    Don't worry Jaime, cameras seem to do the same thing to me. I look great in the mirror, and then when I see a picture of me, YEOW! :confused: I know I can't look that bad...:hmmm:

    But I do...:16suspect :D

    Save some dough, and get that thing cleaned up....then wrap her up until your ready to assemble.
     
  15. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    Few more pics of what I have to work with.

    The heads are odviously not finished, we will probably take them back to Lamar and let him finish them. The ports look awesome so far though, and I know they will run awesome because they are the exact same heads ported exactly the same way as my dad's old Comet's heads were.

    Right now it's just alot of cleaning up to do and then see where I am at as far as what I have and what I need. There is a brand new alternator, almost new aluminum water pump and a oil filter relocation kit also in the box which was a surpise.

    My brother traded my dad a computer for it. (y)

    My goal is to have this thing ready to drop in by Christmas.
     

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