are these the parts that go to the bar that extends from the lower frame to the lower control arms? the bushing i mean..mine are all beat up and cracked. the guy at the tire shop said he can't do caster until i get these replaced. he offered to do it but said it ain't rocket science and i could save a few bucks by doing it myself (readin this todd?) http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDet...TRW&MfrPartNumber=HB1152K&PartType=76&PTSet=A
nothing in particular came up Scott. Do you mean the lower control arm? It bolts to the frame just below the motor mounts and attaches to the bottom of the spindle. They are a bolt in item but you will need a ball joint separator tool to get it loose from the spindle. Buy the whole arm assembly.
Dennis- The guy said that the bushing that is in the front of the two rods right up front need to be replaced. You know the ones that are around the two rods that go thru that metal peice right below the valance? they attach to the lower control arms and go forward at an inward angle to a metal support that is below the rad. We have to replace those bushings before we can get our alignment nice. -Todd
just to let you know auto zone has them in urethane bushings....not sure if parts america does or not i just boughtmine from auto zone about two monthes ago
OK, now I get it. One thing to consider and be careful of is proper torque. If you use any material other than rubber, it is really important not to over torque them. Rubber is very forgiving and compresses much more than any other material. I read an article once where a guy with a Cougar had polygraphite bushing in his. He over tightened them, streaching the rod. Eventually the rod broke while he was driving it, causing alot of damage. Luckly, no one was hurt.
I know a guy in Austin that has broken 3 or 4 strut rods in his Maverick. I'm going to have to ask what kind of bushing material he's using. (He's so paranoid now, that he carries a spare set of strut rods in his trunk. I sold him his last pair really cheap ). He says that after the stut rod breaks, it's when you brake that you have a real steering problem!
thought so... thanks guys. one more question- what is the easiest way to change them? take off the front nut, removing the bar from the underside of the lower control arm? ( to somewhat save the factory setting for caster) it is too cold outside to do a job and find somebody has done it easier and faster. again. thanks
Broken strut rods?? Jeez, what's he doing, 4-wheeling with it? Seriously, I've pounded the crap out of mine over a period of 4-5 years, and have never had a failure. And that is with the front lowered and using all the factory busings.
i can not think of a way to break one. it looks like it would be hell to bend one. has anyone broken one themself? the guy that is breaking them must be hitting curbs with his wheel when he parks ...frank...:bananaman :bananaman
The guy likes speed, but he slows down for bumps, I guarranty! The car had been wrecked years ago. I suspect the car must be slightly twisted or something puting more stress on them.
I've read where it's not recomended to use anything but rubber bushings on the strut rods because rubber is more compliant. Polyurethane doesn't "give" enough and causes excessive loading on other parts of the suspension when you hit bumps or potholes.
Dennis... ...now you have me nevous. I installed polygraphite bushings throughout but I have not tightened all of mine up. What should I torque my 'pg' strut rod bushings to? Seth
