The timing needs to be advanced on one of my 302's. It starts fine, but runs as if the points were going bad. However, it has no points, replaced by pertronics. The distributor is frozen and won't move. I have been soaking it with PB-Blaster for the past few days, but it is still stuck. Suggestions? Jim
Captain Obvious would say loosen the hold down first. Past that I have no idea. Mine was actually LOOSE! My timing was WAY off.
is it on a alum. intake ? it might not have the gasket and the too metals reacted to each other... My thaught is a brass drift and some lite taps straight down on the collar,that might free it up... BUT I would wait for a pro to chime in tho....
The nut is actually off and I have been tapping on the shaft toward the bottom where it goes into the engine. How hard can I tap? Can I get a wrench around the distributor and try to force it or will I break something? Jim
The two metals don't like each other, when you do get it freed up put a little anti- cease on the collar... I don't think I would force it... try a few taps side to side.. Maybe a little heat ?
There is two different metals, but the dizzy is in the block. You should be able to tap it pretty good paying close attention to the affects of the area struck. Obviously you don't want to do anything but maybe twist the shaft by hand. Using tools you might not tell if your bending it. I imagine it would only bend so much till it cracks too. Heating it might help but there is a o ring. It may already need it but if not it might afterwards if you cook it. I have delt with these stuborn ones and sometimes it will require a new dizzy. If stock there not much.
Just throwing out an idea here... You live in florida, so freezing the car by sitting it outside wont work Id try the tapping thing, or sitting some big bags of ice around the distributor...the metal might not contract THAT much from a 30-40`F temp drop, but any is better then none, and might be all you need to break it loose.(if it contracts at all...most metals do, not sure which ones though)
little heat at the base where it goes in the block and some good penatrating oil along with some love taps on a screw driver to try to rotate it. usually works (my F150 is/was the same way)
A couple of taps with a buckshot hard rubbr mallet works pretty well.What also works well is clamp a a pr. of vise grips around the base as close to the intake as posible and tap it back and forth with a hammer.Might take a few taps but it will "shock"it's way loose.
I have taken a good sharp chisel and struck it straight on the edge making a score line. Then I angle the chisel to about 11 oclock and strike it, angle the chisel at about 2 oclock and strike it. I do the switch over and over till I see movement.
Thanks, everyone. I will try these things in the morning. I have one more vacation day before I go back to work. Jim
is the dizzy stuck in the block or is the dizzy shaft stuck in the dizzy body? if the dist is stuck in the block, ive used a pry bar across the t-stat housing then under the dizzy. that pops it out every time. if its the shaft stuck in the body, you need to spray some carb cleaner down the shaft with the dizzy upside down. there is carbon that has formed deposits on the shaft that doesnt let it slide out of the dizzy body.
