Is there some sort of regulator, or is the dimming done only in the headlight switch? I would think bulbs, but the tach is also wired in the headlight circuit, and it is dim too.
Lots of folks have replaced their bulbs with more efficient/brighter LED lights, some have gone as far to paint the inside of the cluster (behind the gauges) flat white to help with reflectance. Makes a huge difference!
Here's a good help about how easy it is to fix. Surprisingly (at least on my 73) there's only 3 bulbs in the cluster that provide backlighting. White seems to have worked best from what I've seen bounced around the forum. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=60255&highlight=dash+lights
Exactly what I did, worked quite well too, only suggestion is be careful taking the cluster out as I had some plastic crack on the backside (out of sight and easily fixed).
The tach is wired to the switch. I've had this car 30 years, and the lights just recently are this dim, so dim you can't see them hardly at all. I guess I'll pull the bulbs and look at them, 194/168 will turn black or silver before they go out. Maybe that's the problem? My tach was always very bright in the past. I just wasn't sure if there was another thing to look at.
yes ..before you do any thing replace the fuse with a new one, not the one next door put a fresh one in it.. it could just be showing the effects of age. that worked for me more than once. good luck.
ok I guess I am not following this, The part you paint white is the actuall plastic cluster on the inside?
Update on an old post! Has anyone tried a new headlight switch? I finally took mine out to replace the bulbs, I couldn't find 5W5 194's, so I just put the 194's in. While the cluster was out, I checked the volts at the harness. It only has 10.8v and using the dimmer in the headlight switch, I can bring it to zero, but if I click it to dome light mode, it actually goes a low 11.0v I know there has to be a loss in the switch. I have the tach light wired in the radio harness, and it is very dim too. I've had this car since it was 10 years old, and I never remember having trouble seeing the lights in the old days. I haven't finished putting it back together to see how it is, I'm replacing the tach too. I might try the headlight switch next, or at least by-passing the dimmer in it if I don't get more volts to it. I will check the fuses, the block was dirty a few years ago, and cleaning the terminals did help get more juice out.
I imagine that it is a set-up kind of like an old speed controller for model train set (rheostat? if I am remembering shop class from ancient times). That was the technology back then. Might be possible to clean it with circuit cleaner spray. Low voltage would suggest it is cruddy, and I am picturing winds of copper wire with tarnish on them at this point. Still if you can find new ... probably a better solution.
The switch should provide a full 12V when the reostat is turned to the left. I'll bet you'll find things have turned green on your old switch. As was said before, maybe a thourough cleaning will help. I have had the terminal ends corrode in the switch to where the little rivet that holds the connection together, no longer makes a good contact. You really can't see this without taking the switch apart. On the ceramic reostat I'd clean the little wiper contact and the button it sets on, and the little circular ring it rides on and see what you get. I'd also make sure you're getting 12V into the reostat too!
All that makes sense, as I was thinking this when I started this thread more than a year ago. Having to paint the back white, put brighter bulbs in, ect... Didn't sound right. Especially when you have one that the windshield leaks! I had to hurry up the tach install since it's a race day Saturday, but after that I will dig deeper in the voltage loss.