I'm going to be racing this car fairly regularly and it is my daily driver. With a nice 331/blower/solid T5 will I benefit from an aluminum drive shaft? The drive shaft I have right now is the stock one, might be causing some vibration at this time but it's minimal. I want to upgrade the U-joints, new aluminum drive shaft from summit is $250 even though I would prefer to have it built locally even if I have to pay a little more.
The stock Maverick driveshaft is too light duty (JMHO) for the performance build you have described. What I would do, is take my car to a driveshaft shop, and have one built to suit the car. In my area, is a great shop that can build anything, and usually for a better price than what you can order one from a speed shop. Before you order one, check locally what they can do for you. Again, JMHO ......
Another option......... Also check some of the junk yards theres an aerostar driveshaft that is a direct replacement to the fox guys so I think that crosses over to us as well. Just beware of dented driveshafts at the yard, when they use forkliflts to set cars on blocks they tend to bend the driveshafts. I picked up an aluminum shaft at the swap meet this weekend for 40 bucks, of a crown vic its about 4 inches to long. Drive shaft shop said 50 bucks to shorten and rebalance. EDIT info added: 92-95 AWD Aerostar, swap yoke(s), 353 (napa) conversion ujoints, 3" dia 96-97 AWD Aerostar, direct bolt on, 3" dia Crown vic p-71, taxi (crown vics), and 93 mark 8's can be shortened to fit a Mustang, 3.5" dia Don't forget a driveshaft loop though! Always a good idea can really save you from tearing up your car, esp with sticky tires!
We have the most famous driveshaft shop here in so cal. Its pretty pricey though. http://www.iedls.com/ I would look around in the SD area first though.
The drive loop is a great idea, I've had that idea in my mind too. I will ask Bryant today, I know he has recommended driveline to people in the past. Maybe he knows someone locally that I can go to. We have a junkyard trip planned soon so maybe we'll find the aerostar driveshaft.
My car has an aluminum drive shaft in it. Made it interesting getting a U joint. Guys on here suggested it was from a Fox body?? Its pretty beeefy lookin compared to a Mav shaft.
Most say no...there is little to no ET gain or loss by going to an aluminum DS over a decent steel one. I'd definitely use something other than the stock one, and upgrade to better u-joints. You should be fine if you do...a driveshaft loop is something I consider mandatory myself...a pole-vaulting Maverick is an ugly Maverick I personally had a 3" diameter steel one made up with the larger u-joints, not the largest though...and it stands up well for low 7's in the 1/8th @ 99 mph.
If you are going to beat on this thing regularly go with a steel driveline made for your application - take all the advice of the builder on u-joint sizes and yoke sizes. In professional racing every ounce is important - no matter what it costs. Aluminum begins to get brittle the first time you place a load on it and it continues until it breaks. Steel tubes do not get brittle unless the flex beyone their elastic limits (bend and get straightened). In a daily driver you don't want to carry a spare driveline in case the one in the car suddenly breaks.
i've had (2) aluminum drive shafts..i broke the rear yoke off both. one pass each on street tires. the driveshaft i had before them was a stock small Maverick...driveshaft. the one i have now is the same...stock small Maverick...driveshaft. i've ran it on street tires/drag slicks. ......
smaller the tube diameter the thicker the wall thickness BTW is what ive found. wall thickness = strength not diameter
My brother in law runs a driveshaft company here and he can make you any kind you want.he built my aluminum one. Usually 1-2 day turn around.if your interested let me know what your wanting and I will talk to him. I know he says the strength is from diameter and that's why I have a 4" driveshaft in mine, can't go any bigger,it just clears the tunnel by a half inch or so. I upgraded to 1330 u joint from the 1310's.
Driveline service of Fresno, ask for mike and tell Randall told you to call. I will see about weighing it this weekend. I would say nearly half the weight of the steel one, but that's just a guess.
