Well im planning on going with this kit, its more bolt on, but its for a mustang, I called and they said they dont make one for Mavericks, the guys said i might be able to use it with making the bars shorter since the Maverick is more narrow than the Mustang. Only major concern is that idk if the frame rails on the Mustang are the same on the Maverick, are they? Because if they are then I can use the same frame rail mounts and just shorten the rest of the bars and thats it.
Lets start with the upper coil over mount cross member. The frame mount will fit if you relief cut the U-channel. The Maverick frame rails at that location are not the same width. They actually get wider as they come up from the rear. depending on the U-channel brackets, you will likely have to get creative with the bumpstop brackets and existing shock mount cross-member to get it positioned correctly. The c/o cross-member will have to be shortened in the middle by maybe 1/2". The same with the PHB. The front frame rail brackets use the existing front leaf-spring points to anchor to. This is not a problem other than you will have to lengthen your lower control arms by an inch. The rest of the bracket will have to be redone as the frame rail of the mustang and the maverick do not follow the same curve. This would result in change the upper control arm brackets.
so basically I would have to get the rear frame mounts widend a little so they fit on the frame rail. thats maybe the less complicated one. but the front frame rail mounts are gonna be way off, you think if maybe I measure the angle a fabrication shop can probably get the mounts and put them to that angle or maybe make me new ones?
I am building my own 4 link/coil over/Watts rear crossmembers because nothing for a Mustang will simply bolt up. As Grabber GT said most, if not all pieces have to be tweeked on this set up to fit a Maverick. If you find someone to re-vamp each and every piece, of a high dollar store bought system, you might look into having that same fabricator purchase some tubing, 1/8 inch flat stock, buy adjustable 4 link/Watts bars and ends and build it themselves based on what you see in this photo.
My rear crossmember for my front links and top driveshaft loop is based on an Art Morrison piece (a little different) but I built it to fit my 70 Maverick (thanks for measuring for me Terri). In fact, my driveshaft loop was purchased from Art Morrison. It also bolts into the old front leaf spring bolt holes. I still have to weld in the front 4 link brackets but, like I said, are only made of flat steel or cut open tubing pieces. Once all of my brackets are done, I'll weld these solid to the frame rails. My rear end brackets, Watts crossmember, coil over mounts might be based on other things that I've seen done in magazines or on this forum. I feel that you can wind up with the best of all worlds this way - and everything fits too.
i think I might just go buy a welder and try and do this things myself, only one to learn, im young I have alot to learn still
I bought a 110 volt Lincoln Handy Mig that will do solid core and flux core. I never welded a solid bead before in my life either. With all of the stock cars, that I have built over the years, I just tack welded the bars and brackets in place because I always had a certified welder at my disposal. All of the welding, that I have done so far on my Maverick, has been learned recently using this Handy Mig. I burned up a roll or two of wire practicing. Wire is cheap at Harbor Freight. Practice - practice - practice and then some more practice
Added welder photo in above post - got it on sale from Sears for 300.00 - Then you have the gas cylinder investment/a decent regulator and also a helmet and gloves. The welding cart was cheap from Harbor Freight.