My car has roller perches and 90/10 shocks with 69.5 6cyl. springs and I have always thought that the super stiff polygraphite bushings on the stock strut rods were really keeping the front end from "unloading" as it should on a hard launch...I think that problem will soon be solved !yahoo:
Have you ever tried moving the lower control arm with just the strut rod bolted to it? Definitely seom resistance going on there. These bushings dont like to compress one way or the other when moving the arm up or down. probably work as good as the sway bar at keeping the car level. I took my sway bar out and don't notice a difference.
Exactly, The LITTLE flexing they will do is designed more for a slight up and down, and a very slight fore and aft. When you raise the front end of the car (either with a jack or with horsepower) they get into a serious binding situation right where the bushings are sandwiched together. add to that the thought that some front end man who likes things "Gorilla tight" may have stretched the threads at some time over the last 35 years, plus the possability of rust,fatigue. ect. and its a wonder alot more people haven`t had one to break and cause an accident.
ive had one brake on me. polyurithane buishings on a lower 69 mustang. the sway bar kept the lower controle arm located well enough. sold that car. the strut rod broke again (still had the polyurithane bushing) but the sway bar was removed this time. it happened on the freeway. the wheel moved back in the wheel well and hit the inner fender and locked up. sent the car spining off the freeway. they got lucky and didnt get hurt or have any real damage to the car. that is one reason why we are doing these right now. just waiting on some parts to get here then we will get it done.
The last couple posts make me want to: A: put my sway bar back in and B: Change out strut rods for some of these fancy things
ive considering puting a cable from the control arm to the front crossmember to act as a saftey divice during testing.
ok guys here is the missing piece, we're going to be a little busy with a few other projects so we are gonna push this off just a couple days, not too long though
I recieved the "Street or Track" strut rods and am VERY pleased with the Quality. Also ,they came with very good instructions,ALL hardware and Torque specs. http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Adjustable-Strut-Rods-pr-16135.html When I get them installed, I will report back here with how they affect my ride ,handling,and launch characteristics . I do think that the Ones that Mashori is building would do just as well ,and would be much cheaper. I just took the lazy route and bought mine already done.
they look really well made in the picture and I'm sure for the powdercoating and all the engineering and instruction that price is well worth it
UPDATE ! I installed the new "Street or Track" (ST) Brand strut rods today ,and the car DOES NOT ride any rougher. I like the way the steering feels ,to me its better than ever. It`s hard to explain what is different about the feel of driving the car and how it changed with these installed. But I am very pleased with the result. In my opinion these are a good mod no matter what you use your car for.
Seems to me it would be pretty easy to do. Use a longer bolt to mount the front yoke and leave the bushings in place. I would use poly bushings with it but can't see why it wouldn't work.
Here's my fabbed set up....I used a 3/4 heim up front. I made a heavy duty U channel drilled for a 3/4 inch bolt welded up to where the stock strut went through...The black threaded pieces are heavy duty truck wheel studs....I used those because they're left hand thread and also 3/4"...The swedge tubes are from speedway motors....They come in 1" incremental lengths..I used a heavy wall piece of tubing drilled to accept the wheel stud on one end and the piece of the stock strut on the other
what are you going to use to mount it to the chassis? finding a large enough and properly shaped clevis was the hardest part in my research.
I was thinking of using this design except instead of how this one in the picture bolts directly to the lower control arm I was going to have it bolt to a modified section of the old strut rod (modify the angled section that bolts to the lca by adding an extra hole to bolt this style rod to it)
