Making my old green motor into a roller motor wanabee. Got the kit and it says to go ahead and drill and tap. Thats it?:16suspect Am i going to have any problems with the lifter guides not being at a certain level? (difference in lifter valley height, and no bump for the spider to sit on) Just trying to be causious, dont want to ruin a roller cam (again)
are you useing a reduced base circle cam? thats what you need to make the stock roller lifters work in a non roller block. if thats what your useing then yes you just need to drill and tap holes in the block to bolt the spider plate down to. if your not using a reduced base circle cam you will have problems with the lifters in there bores.
So that explains the reduced base circle on my cam. Didnt know it had it til the pushrods ended up being wrong by .065 or something like that. I ended up using lashcaps to fill in the gap. My block was a 5.0 and had two nipples raised in the lifter valley. I drilled and tapped those and bolted everythinv down. Use locktite so you dont wiggle something loose in a couple months.
I thought the lifter bores and spider bosses were on the same revision on the block. Shouldn't you be able to drill and tap the bosses and run roller cam and lifters without the use of a reduced base circle cam? Justin what year is your block?
correct. if it already has the bosses for the "spider" bolts then you wouldnt need a reduced base circle cam because it's already a roller block (just didnt have the roller lifters from factory)
Its a 1980 block. No spot for the roller cam bolts Any more info on these fansy cams your talking about Bryant?:16suspect
Justin do a search. Theres 3 threads full of all this info. I remember reading up on this subject. Also an alternative to the reduced base circle cam is to use a set of linked lifters. But you`ll probably piss your pants when you see the price. Lol
Some of the early truck 5.0's had the raised lifter bores and the bosses for the spider bolts But the tops of the lifter bores were not machined flat and have to be machined. Need to check that out I think also clint
Some are actually tapped!!! Still searching " small base circle cam is where the cam's core (the round metal part of cam that the lobes and bearing jounrals are made onto) is a smaller DIA. You do this, not for greater lift but for rod bolt/crank to cam clearance on stroker engines.. When you add a longer stroke crank into a block that wasnt ment to hold it.. Like a chevy 383 stroker (3.75" stroke crank into a block made for a 3.48" stroke) The rod bolts will hit the cam, as the piston/rod moves up the bore because the crank now pushes rods/pistons .27" (over a 1/4 inch) higher up By using a cam ground on a smaller core shaft, the clearance prob is gone.. You can also grind the shoulders down on the tops of the rod bolts, or use aftermarket rods that are already made stroker clearanced and run a std cam"
Ok i got it, thanks guys. Hey Bryant? Why didnt you just say that the lifters need to set lower and thats what the cam does?
