Motors smoking like hell still and we have come to the conclusion that..... the rings are shot I'm sick of this crap, i got the car and was told the motor was rebuilt, then bought a motor that was suppost to be rebuilt. Both were not I'm done, 50 bucks and you can take it. Im throwing the roller motor in with new rings and gaskets, e7 heads and an over 500 lift cam / 280 duration I told my car to stop smoking and it didnt listen to me, so now it needs a heart transplant... or is that lung?
Did I hear that right? 2 motors for 50 bucks. Sounds like you might of hit "the wall of frustration". Have you done any compression test? Used oil in the cylenders after the first check? These motors are easy to rebuilt, and afterwards you know what you have cause you did it. Chin up. Go back and kick its but!
I encourage you to keep working on your car, it's the young guys like you, that we need in this hobby!!!
Just the motor for 50 bucks. Its eating oil, there is a puddle of it sitting in both my glasspacks. While the motors out i might do a shock tower shaving!
That's exactly what I did to mine after removing the junkyard 302 from it. It makes life SOOOOO much easier when working on it.
While the motors out i might do a shock tower shaving![/QUOTE] Highly recommended! You'll be glad you did.
When u shave the towers - Just what is involved? How much of the towers are removed? Im not planning on removing my engine, but, you nvr know when it may become necessary. If I ever do I will most likely do mine. I did,nt ck the tech articles yet- just saw it mention hr and decided to inquiry.
I shaved mine about an inch more than most people, and I did not remove the engine. I was in the middle of a head swap, placed a bunch of blankets over the exposed pistons, and did it then. Then made sure I had the pistons and cylinders really clean before I reassembled.
If you'll look at mine in my photobucket link below, you can see how much I cut em back. You start just below the tower brace bolts, then curve it back til nearly the springs, then straight down to just above the upper control arm studs, leaving enough room for the upper arms to travel upward. Then plate over the hole.