New member, buying a maverick, need your advice guys...

********UPDATE********

Bought the car, its a 250 not a 200...the guy definately didnt know what was going on...

Car is having some issues - running a bit rough - was dying.

I'll post at the bottom what exactly is going on.

Heres the Maverick:

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/1491865633.html

1976
200 I6
Automatic Trans.

Interior is in pretty decent shape, no glove box compartment, tear on floor, blemished drivers side door, nothing major in my opinion.

Body wise its in alright condition I suppose, here are the major issues. Both wheel wells on rear are rusted, the drivers side being worst. It has eaten through a bit of the trunk in that area. Trunk is solid other than that section. Driver side has a bit of rust behind wheel well just below door.

Running Condition:

Car runs, I test drove it, its rough just like it says. Acts like its starving for fuel a little bit and the engine is jumpy to start, straightens out after about 5 minutes a little bit, but still rough. The guy said he replaced the carb, and gas tank but I am sure he didnt fully adress whatever issue the mav is having.

He says that the carb just needs cleaned but I can tell his knowledge on the issue is no greater than mine.

The test drive was only around a single block because it was snowing pretty bad and I didnt want to chance it any further. The roads are clearing up within a few days so I want to take it on a real test drive and see how it does.

Also, when I pulled back into his driveway which is on about a 25 degree slope the car died...started back up but died again...Obviously it wasnt getting enough gas, I just dont know why at that point. Guage showed 1/2.

This 76 is the oldest car I have ever driven and is way different than I had imagined. It could be because the snow and lack of traction on the car but it reminds me of driving a Humvee where you gotta put the pedal to the medal to get some action....we shall see in the next run though.

I need some of your guys input on what you think...That picture was taken awhile ago I am assuming since there is no snow and the rust on that side isnt quite as visible as I had noticed in person. I will upload a video later to youtube and post a link so you can see a bit more although its not much...

I have the guy down to about 950 at the moment which I dont think hes willing to go below.

also open to any custimization ideas you guys may have.

*************ADDITIONAL EDIT************
Forgot to mention this before:

The exhaust below the car has a gap in it...By this I meen that there are two sections of pipe that look as if they should be bolted together, but there are no bolts so there is a gap and smoke comes out there also.

tailpipe======(gap)=====engine

there is an oil leak somewhere near the rear of the engine by passenger tire.


anyone have pictures to compare a 250 and a 200 engine? I am way to new to visually tell the diffs. Noob

 

The price of 950 seems fare for that car. I would make sure you check the front end parts and steering out better.good tires,brakes,exhaust. I would by it for that price. Mine was 700 theres people here that know alot more than me(a newbie) but where I live it would be a deal

 

and thanks for asking...:Handshake

my thoughts on this...
if you are planning a 302 (V8) swap, then how good the motor, transmission and rear gear are now means nothing at this point. you need to make a call on...is the body worth $950..JMO...

...Frank...

P.S. i don't think they had a 200 6 cyl. in '76

 

I would also check the front torque boxes and the rear frame rails. If they have any rust....I would pass on this car.

 

Just remember, it is a 33+ year old car. It's going to need some work, don't expect to just get in and drive anywhere. (yet)

 

Most likely a 250 ci.

Also, pull the carpet up on the passenger side, or at least look under the passenger side floorboard from underneath. Very common area of rust, which means you will have lots of work to do to keep it dry.

Carbs run $60 rebuilt from O'Reilly, so don't worry about that too much. the body will be your biggest source of discomfort over the following years, if you don't scope it out well.

 

Far less common then the 250, but they were available. The '77 4 door I got from Tom Lowery originally had a 200.

 

Best to look on both sides? Most of my floor was rusted on the drivers side.

 

you might want to pour some water down the cowl and see if any leaks into the car. May not be a problem if the car has been parked outside in the snow. It probably would have had a wet carpet and you'd of probably noticed it. Sounds like a pretty good price for the way the car looks to me.

 

Never hurts to look under both sides, but I was under the impression that the passenger floor was the most likely hit.

 

Alright first off all advice and tips to this point are greatly appreciated and I will definately do the following (which seems to be common theme of what you guys are saying)

Check under both sides of carpet for common rust.
Torque Boxes and Rear frame rails

alright here is something that I forgot and I will edit the main post with...

The exhaust below the car has a gap in it...By this I meen that there are two sections of pipe that look as if they should be bolted together, but there are no bolts so there is a gap and smoke comes out there also.

tailpipe======(gap)=====engine

 

anyone have pictures to compare a 250 and a 200 engine? I am way to new to visually tell the diffs. Noob

A 250 would be better right? Think I read the transmission would be compatible with a 302?

 

decode your vin with this http://home.comcast.net/~petebre/maverick/decode/index.html

it'll tell you what it was originally equiped with

 

I will have to buy the car first lol

But thanks for the link, I will definately use it come Friday should I get the car.

On another note, how hard is it to repair this kind of rust damage?

 

Exhaust problems are easy and cheap to fix. Don't worry about it.

Worry about rust.