distributor cap is new. condenser, points and ignition coil is new... don't know about the rest of it. wires are new. I've just never gapped a point before so I'm kind of guessing here.
Stop calling it a 4.1L, it's a 250!! They didn't refer to them as "L" in the 70's!! CID. (just bugs me)
WAIT!!! That gap I gave you is for the spark plugs. The gap for the points is supposed to be .027". I misread what you were asking for.
i havn't had points in years, but if I remember correctly, you loosen the one (or 2) flat-head screws. Not all the way, but just loose enough it all moves a bit. Use the screwdriver to pry between two little bumps that force it to move the points apart. Turn the engine by hand so that the points are open at their widest point. Put feeler gauges in there and use that screwdriver to adjust it to the .027". Then without moving anything at all, crank down that one (or 2?) screws to hold it down.
Check the fuel pressure. Its quick and easy. Hook up a gauge and go for a road test. That tells you right quick if you have a fuel issue.
oh crap. already gapped it to .034 I'll change it tomorrow. It runs great tho lol. adjusted the timing until it sounded good so maybe that compensated...? OR MAYBE IT CAN SOUND EVEN BETTER!! (that would be so cool). It's all good dude. at least it wasn't a smaller number that might have fried the points.
sorry. that's what advanced auto and such places always asked me so that's what I always called it. the 70's were a long time ago and I didn't have to take history in college.
You are right, having a bigger gap won't hurt, and it will only get a better spark when you reduce it to the right gap! Sorry I didn't read your post better and gave you the wrong number.:sorry:
Appmaverick, I just experienced the same problem and it turns out the fuel tank was full of rust resulting in a plugged up system. I'm running EFI but I had the same symptoms. Had the problem at higher speeds and RPM but revs fine in neutral.
eww. that's no good to hear. I was all excited about my new parts too lol. Hopefully we have different problems. (I'm sure I have rust in my fuel tank but I'm hoping that's not what is causing the problem I was having). Moisture in my gas tank was my initial thought and I put some of that moisture evaporator stuff in there from valvoline. I have 3/4 of a tank right now or else I would drop the tank tomorrow and check, but I'll see if it's any better with new electrical and let you know. Thanks for the heads up.
Gravy? Man, you are making me hungry...gotta go make some breakfast. you can pick up a pressure gauge from the hardware store (welding section, for low pressures), put a T in your fuel line, and just duct tape the gauge to the windshield, and take it for a drive. Keep an eye on that fuel pressure, and hope it stays up around 5-7 psi. Then remove it all and keep it for another job later on. I did this for a while (same problem, before I found the burned plug wires) and mounted the gauge on brass fittings with an L, and wire-tied the L to my cowl vent just in front of the windshield. Drove it like that for a couple weeks til I fixed the problem.
That's pretty clever. I might try that either way even if the electrical stuff fixes it. you've got me curious about it and that seems kinda fun lol.
k. wasn't electrical. did it again when I hit 60mph. pop open the float reservoir and it had rust and debris in it. Gas runs clean and clear out of the line so I'm thinking the gas sitting in the reservoir just rusted up. the float height was correct (5/8" right?). I cleaned the reservoir and resealed it back on. gonna check in a few and see if that worked. compression testing the fuel pump at high rev is the next thing if this doesn't do it. any other ideas?
Did you check that fuel pressure on a road test yet??? ITs OK just ignore me again likely dont know what I'm talkin about anyhow.
