just went for a ride and unpluged the temp sensor when i left it was ok and then it got worse much worse. Maybe that sensor is going bad...........
you could have a rich condition thats making the ecm force the engine to run lean.You really need to use a scanner to get live data at the least to determine this.A simple code reader wont do it.Re-trace your steps and what you have done to this point.Like lance said "its not rocket science" But,with computer controll systems the answer is sometimes hidden under a rock.is your fuel pump getting full battery voltage??If you can drive the car with the fuel pressure tester connected and located where you can read it while driving(if possible)I have driven cars around with fuel pressure testers duct taped to the windshield so I could read em.
Yeah gene you can do it with digital volt meter.unfortunately at the moment I cant remeber what the test verifies as bad(DOH!!)
I would ohm test the sensor when its cold...record the value...run the car up to operating temp... if the value does not change or changes very little, the ECT is bad.
Gene the only thing I can remember is I was working on a 95 olds 3.8 that kept eating ignition modules and it was due the alt putting out allmost 2 volts AC and it shouldnt put out more than .9 V AC.
Mike, we've all been there with a problem child and feel your pain,We'll stick with ya till its solved.(dats jus how we roll dog)
ok does the idle go up and down? If so that sounds like an IAC motor Or your Coolant temp sensor is reading low temps(such as -40F) and it is running rich. Or the fuel pressure regulator is stuck open.... Another issue could be the MAF sensor is contaminated.... By chance you are not running a Kand N air filter. I have seen guys over oil the filter contaminate the MAF sensor(long shot but hey ya never know) I must have missed the surging problem. Glad you have the Miss fixed One step at a time. We can fix it we have the technology :Handshake
what about the o2 sensors? I had a VW once that had the idle surging up and down and driving too, scanned was a bad O2 sensor stuck on 850mv, got a new one problem was gone.
Kinda the same here. Only I had a Mazda that wouldn't start. I loosened it and retightened it and it worked for a couple of years till I sold it.
i don't see how the O2 sensor would prevent it from starting, the o2 doesn't kick in till it' warms up
Im going to get the throttle position sensor and the temp sensor. If that doesnt fix it its going to get ugly........................
The books tell you that but.........i have also had an experience with Probe 2.5l that had 3 out 4 02s bad. The issue is driving and then shutting the vehicle off. The plugs are soaked from enriched fuel conditions add to the fact the converters are in meltdown mode....... Hence a no start condition. It is rare but does happen. BTW welcome to wacky world of auto repair. I see you are in school
